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Hi all,

About to change the timing belt on my R33 GTS25T. Have most of the details sorted out (part number, tensioning, torques etc), but one question before I embark on the job:

Q: Do you really have to remove the crank pulley to get the lower belt cover and belt off?

If so, how do you lock the crank in position to undo the f*%# big nut, and is a special puller required? What mega torque does it then need to replace?

Thanks in advance for any info, Peter.

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u need 30mm socket and a big bar or u can use the starter to do it for u ( put socket in place with bar and kick the starter as it hits the rail it will undo make sure u cut the coils off so it wont srart ) then u need a puller to pull it off it will be very tight .

if u do it yourself make sure u know what u r doing cause u have to time it right and also tension it right . if u dont have a workshop manual i can help .

u also have to torque the tensioner pulley with a torque rench

u must have it in gear and handbrake on !!!torque for the big bolt is rb25 and rb 20 142-152 n-mts , rb 26 446-544 idler pulley and tensioner pulleyfor all engines 43-58 n-mt .

u definetaly need a puller to pull the crank pulley .

if u dont know how to adjust the tension on the belt let me know and i'll post it for u . its very important to have the right tension on the belt and on the tensioner pulley bolt ( if u do it to tight it will break , not tight enough and it will come undone ).

make sure u put back the 2 tensioner washers as the were as well .u need an allen key as well for the tensioner bolt ( 5 mm from memory ) . if u have any problems or unsure dot insall it let me know and i'll post it for u , the 3 timing marks are marked clearly . good luck with it .

it would be good for some one to post how to adjust the tension on the belt?

i thought it was tensioned by the spring in the idler pully?

pics would be good too if anyone has them.

do not adjust an old belt as it will shorten its life .

to adjust the tension once u put the belt in place and the timing marks are right ( all lining up , 2 cam gears , and crank pulley )turn the crank clockwise 2 full turns with the tensioner pulley bolt loose then put allen key in the hole so u acn tighten the pulley bolt ( torque 43-58 nmt )and thats it as simple as that , check the tension by pushing on the belt with ur hand ( just in case u done something wrong ) . important to tighten the pulley bolt 43- 58 nmts , do it less it will come undone do it tighter and it will snap , i have seen them snap cause people do them to tight .

u have to make sure u put the spring in the correct way otherwise it wont work the way it was designed .only use nissan belt as i dont know who makes them for them not to expensive though about $85 trade , aftermarket not much less

i currently work for a belting company and we can get the belts alot cheaper, not nissan, but exactly the same. already matched my old timing belt up. if any one is interested pm me and i will get a price. maybe a group buy and i will get them pretty cheap.

i have used non genuine belts in the past , some last the distance and some dont . the nissan belt is short so it should be o k subarus have very long belts and aftermarket belts just dont last .

thats the reason i wouldn't use aftermarket unless i knew the company that makes the original belt was the same as the aftermarket , its very costly if it breaks it will bend a few valves on the 6 cil rb engines .

my personal opinion , lots of places use aftermarket though .

peter i think i put up everything u need to know about tensioning the belt . when u have it out if u get stuck ill pm my phone number and u can ring me or sms .

when u take the covers off before u take the belt off put the engine on top dead centre that is line ur timing marks spot on .

once the belt is out dont turn the engine ( u may bend a valve or 2 if u turn it hard ).

when all the covers are off loosen the tension pulley nut ( thats the pulley on the inlet side , drivers side )then u should be able to remove the belt u dont have to remove cam gears like some other engines .i think i got the rest on previous posts .when u put the belt on make sure all marks are lining up spot on one tooth out and u r stuffed then adjust the tension then turn the engine a few times ( from crank pulley bolt is easy , insall the bolt temperaly ) to make sure valves dont hit and check to make sure that the timing marks still line up. when u put the crank angle sensor back make sure the o ring is ok ( if not change it )and put a smear of rubber grease( normal grease will do if u dont have rubber grease ) so it will slide in easy . good luck with it peter , regards ,

jerry

Did the job on Saturday. No problems!

Took about 3 1/2 hours start to finish - an easy way to save a quoted $250 labour costs...

Jerry's advice was spot-on, only two minor changes:

1) My crank nut wasn't 30mm, the best fit was actually 1 1/16"!

2) The M6 puller holes in the harmonic balancer weren't very deep - I could only get the puller screws in about 5 or 6 mm - this was still OK.

Total cost was $104 for the belt (genuine Nissan - I couldn't see the point in risking an inferior belt to save $20) and $18 for the puller.

I can recommend you do this job yourselves guys, it is not hard if you're careful, and you get to learn a lot about your engine (belts, water pump, oil seals etc).

Cheers, Peter.

I wouldn't cos a snapped timing belt can destroy an engine. Dum Fik who replaced mine (a workshop) for the previous owner overtightened the idler bearing - snapped bolt 6k later & 1 destroyed engine not under warranty. Only do it if your confident using a torque wrench, and know ALL torque settings.

peter i'm glad u did the job and happy to be able to help .

sorry about the size of the bolt head it must be the RB 26 that is 30mm as for the 6 mm bolts the reason a said to screw them in a fair bit is that u may strip the thread .

now u may have to check the timing with a timing light cause u moved the crank angle sensor .

i always use genune timing belt , not sure of the aftermarket .

i think i get the rb belts for about $80 but thats trade price so $100 sounds right for retail.

BL4kc32 thats a good reason to do it yourself cause a lot of workshops use 18 yo kids to do the work and they dont care , as long as u take ur time and know what u r doing or have someone that knows ( did it before ) u'll be fine . u should never atempt to do it if u dont know though cause as u know u can stuff up ur engine .

cheers , jerry

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