Jump to content
SAU Community

Rough Idle R34 Rb25det Neo Engine

ShadowKnyght

By ShadowKnyght,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted
Quick answer is no

throw them in the bin (2 of them) and replace with new genuine items from nissan

they won't be cheap but they are very important in the running of your engine

Fair enough, thanks for the tip.

I just got a hair-raising quote from the Nissan parts department not to mention the several weeks required to get them sent in from Japan. I'll try and chase up some second hand ones here first.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted
I just got a hair-raising quote from the Nissan parts department not to mention the several weeks required to get them sent in from Japan. I'll try and chase up some second hand ones here first.

I just filled the car up with BP Ultimate 98RON and reset the ECU again. This time I'm getting code 55 "No Malfunction" i.e. all clear!

I'm not too sure now whether it's the knock sensors afterall, however the stutter/slight misfire is still there so I'll have to look into the other items on ShadowKnyght's original post.

  • 8 months later...
Steve_Nz Newbie

Steve_Nz

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I'm sorry to bring up an old thread too.

But I've had exactly the same problem as what's been described here, from what everyone's saying I think it seriously could be my injectors.

This is my story I have a 1996 R33 GTS coupe that's been converted to manual and it also had a 1999 RB25DE NEO engine conversion with only 100,000 kms on it.

The previous owner did the conversion and I bought it off him cheap because he was moving to Australia (I live in New Zealand).

Anyway it's never been running right since I got it, it has been using way to much fuel (like 300-350km to a tank!) and has as much power as an RB20E or less... It makes a popping noise when under acceleration sometimes you can hear it coming out the intake and sometimes it backfires as well. Sometimes it seems like it's only running on 5 cylinders when it's idling and or driving. I've had the car for 5 months now and I've done the following things already to try and fix it.

Replaced spark plugs.

Replaced air filter.

Replaced fuel filter.

Replaced fuel pump.

Cleaned AFM.

Thought it was the coilpacks but they've been tested and they are sweet.

Checked TPS.

Put fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank.

And recently I took it to see a friend of a friend who was a mechanic, he said the spark plugs looked like the engine had been running lean.

He did a compression test and the compression was perfect.

He gapped the spark plugs and advanced the timing and he seemed to think it was running bad because it was running lean.

Anyway after he'd gapped the sparkplugs and advanced the timing it had a whole lot more power than it's ever had it was wheel spinning from 1st to 2nd on WOT but still making the popping noise and not running perfectly smoothly like it should be.

I noticed an improvement in fuel economy too.

Anyway the check engine light has been coming on so I finally took it to the auto sparky and got him to plug it in. He said that the oxygen sensor was stuck reading rich so it was leaning out the air/fuel ratio and that I should get a new oxygen sensor.

So today I took the cam cover off to check the cambelt and then I put it back on along with the Cam angle sensor and I'm sure I put it on right and also fully advanced the timing like my friends friend did but when I started my car up it's running rough like it was before and the power and fuel economy is down from what it has been recently.

Then my new oxygen sensor arrived today and I was like yay this will finally fix it!

But guess what? I unbolted the old one and bolted the new one up and plugged it in and nothing changed! It's still running like rubbish and I'm beginning to want to tear my hair out!

Ugh this car is driving me nuts... It's my first Skyline and I've always loved them but I've had so many problems with it that it's almost made me hate this one...

Can somebody please help me?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...