Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, Names daniel. first time on these forums.. not very knowledgeable on the whole turbo stuff but im not stupid.

ok ive got a VL Calais.. with an RB25DET conversion. 5 speed manual..4:11 diff, all stock atm the turbo has a wastegate rattle. so ive been told.and i want to upgrade the turbo. the exhaust ive got. custom 3inch turbo back, will bolt onto a GT30. but ive been told a GT30 will lagg because it doesnt boost untill like 3500rpm. so a gt28 would be better for me. the only thing i dont know about is the cooling lines. now as i can see theres 3 cooling lines.. correct me if im wrong.. Would i have to block or remove some cooling lines? or would it better to keep the oil and water lines? i dont know. or will it bolt straight on. or will i have to modify the cooling lines to siut the net turbo.. i plan on doing all this myself.. with help from mates obviously.

so has anyone got any ideas? number i can ring to talk to someone about this?

Thanks.. :D

heres wat it looks like

DSC00019.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/
Share on other sites

dude most big turbo's lag till around 3500, the 28 will only really reduce this issue slightly compared to your current turbo(for example 28's are a replacement turbo for 300zx's) 1.5 litres per turbo...going backwards really.

if your after more response maybe look at a forward facing plenum chamber, similar to what you see on gtr's,

also to improve the turbo response from what you have invest in a stainless steel exhaust mainfold, this will help with exhaust gas flow and will reduce lag

also a aftermarket ecu would greatly improve the power curve.

the cooler you can keep your engine and its associated bolt ons the better, and the longer your turbo will last.

so a oil cooler wouldn't go amiss either.

cams and cam gears are another good one, this can increase the torque down low for more engine generated power rather than turbo induced power.

the combination of free flowing manifolds cam's and ecu will most likley be of more benefit to your responsiveness then just a turbo by itself.

it's up to you ofcourse, its your car and your money but from expierence(owner of nine vl commies including a walky and a HDT brocky) the idea's ive listed above will be of more benefit in the long run as these will allow for big power figures later when you do want to change turbo's.

oh and a foot note, read up on the rb30/25det engine conversion threads...this will greatly improve response and take your vl calias back up to its 3 litre capacity, Shouldn't have any issues mot wise.

my gts4 is running a rb30/26det conversion and is producing 210hp at all four wheels just as the turbo is coming on boost, once in the sweet spot its 401 at all four @8 psi....engine work first 747 boeing later.

good luck

Edited by nizmonut
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3938968
Share on other sites

thanks for the advice.. but i need to do the turbo before anything. i had a make look at the rattle and he said its the internal wastegate. and its sticking open or closed. depends.. and he said im lucky i havnt blown the engine from over boosting it. so thats the frist on my list.. im not after extreme amount of power. just an upgrade of turbo. ecu, injectors. just to make it decent. not really powerfull. so i dunno wat to put on., changing the manifold wasnt really on my plan. but i have to, to put the turbo best for me on. then i have to..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3939016
Share on other sites

thanks for the advice.. but i need to do the turbo before anything. i had a make look at the rattle and he said its the internal wastegate. and its sticking open or closed. depends.. and he said im lucky i havnt blown the engine from over boosting it. so thats the frist on my list.. im not after extreme amount of power. just an upgrade of turbo. ecu, injectors. just to make it decent. not really powerfull. so i dunno wat to put on., changing the manifold wasnt really on my plan. but i have to, to put the turbo best for me on. then i have to..

well for one if u want good power ur gonna have to sacrifice abit of repsonse to make it...... its how the cookie crumbles

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3939037
Share on other sites

oh...start by taking the ac out..theres 15 kw right there.

theres no AC in it.. the compressor is there cuz the guy who did the conversion left it there for some reason. but its off now i took it off last weekend..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3939072
Share on other sites

15kw taking AC out?? hmm ok.

dont worry about the Forward facing plenum until you get close to 300kw. stock flows great up until then.

a good option would be a highflow 25 turbo, uses same exhuast, lines, manifold, everything.

then get a piggyback ecu (or a stand alone if you want) and get it all tuned. see if your happy with how it feels and go from there.

CJ

o and if the wastegate isnt closeing properly, try slightly bending the arm, its not a FIX its just a bandaid. or just stay off full boost :P

Edited by -_-StRyDeR-_-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3939188
Share on other sites

Another option is a HKS GTRS. I found this to be the best "all rounder" on an rb25. Nice and responsive, yet capable of making 250-280rwkw, depending on other supportive mods.

Or do what i did: Build a strong rb30 bottom end, bolt on the 25 head, add cams, manifold, plenum, etc and attach the smallest recommended turbo; a GT30R. Full boost (currently 15psi) by 2800rpm and will make 300+rwkw. My setup is still in run-in tune, so time will tell how aggressive it gets with 5psi more boost, more timing, better tune and adjusting the cam gears.

Not sure why people swap to smaller capacity engines, sure it's twin cam but cubes count for a lot too. The difference between my current rb30 setup and my previous rb25 setup is HUGE and the engine is still in run-in tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3939237
Share on other sites

Not sure why people swap to smaller capacity engines, sure it's twin cam but cubes count for a lot too. The difference between my current rb30 setup and my previous rb25 setup is HUGE and the engine is still in run-in tune.

ive got my RB30 turbo engine sitting in my garage.i(f anyones keen on buying it.? got computer turbo and engine. some oil leaks but still in good condition. no loom tho.) but doing the conversion was the cheaper option for me at the time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223565-need-advice/#findComment-3939322
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...