Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have searched the entire forum before asking this, aswell as UK skyline forum.

My new nismo meter set won't read speed correctly ( ie shows im doing 120kph when im actually doing 50 kph etc ) and HICAS light stays on.

I have done the following so far to fix these problems :

1. Fit a brand new speedo cable.

2. Checked oil levels for HICAS

3. Changed over speed sensor as the back of dash for orig cluster that was working fine.

4. Checked Battery power level, which is a dry cell optima yellow top with plenty of juice left in it.

The nismo set is meant to be plug and play.... Don't or shouldn't need calibration or a addon gear reduction box etc.......

Also speed reads correctly via Apexi power FC hand controller LCD display .......

are there any skyline guru's out there that could possibly shed light on this situation.......... or offer a solution.

I won't take it to nissan for them to charge me countless hours for them to try and find the problem and come to the same point as me nor a exclusive over priced performance shop that I will shell out

$'s for them to try and find problem with no solution.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223752-anyone-know-a-fix-for-this/
Share on other sites

I vaguely remember someone saying early GTRs were different to latter ones in regards to the speedo, I remember someone selling one for this reason.

I think we can safely assume HICAS is acting up due to it not getting a speed signal(it relies on speed sensor used for dash)

I had a quick search, but couldn't find the thread, but im sure there was a solution for this already...

+1 for later 32's being different. When I got my 260kph dash I had to make sure it was series 1.

It is odd however that the PFC reads the correct speed.. 32's get the electronic signal from the dash so logic would dictate that if that isn't reading correctly then the ECU shouldn't be either..

If the PFC is getting the correct speed then I think HICAS should be too. Did you have your steering wheel off at all?

The speed sensor is the only change between the early models up to the 91/8 series.

The speed sensor and speedo is excatley the same as my current GTR speedo, I even swapped the speed sensors to double check.

Also the apexi PFC displays the correct speed which relies on the data front he speed sensor, hence I hence rule that out.

The HICAS light is on but I have full steering.

I have never had the steering wheel off.

and the extra confuse the FUBAR`D situation the speedo worked correctly once.....

the only thing I can think of is the little square slot in the back of the speedo is slightly worn and not making proper contact..... thats a very long stretch though.

I have been through all the normal causes for this problem.

Must be someone out there taht can shed some light on this....

Even if the slot was worn the ECU's are still getting the speed signal after the cable goes into the speedo.. I'd be looking more at the speedo itself and 70kph difference is a lot!

the speed sensor is working correctly.

the nismo dash has gearing down already, its a plug n play item. But to me its a plug and cluster f**k.

If the speed sensor is all good, then all it can be is the mechanicals in the the speedo itself.. stands to reason.

Do you still have the original one to plug back in and try?

Can't see any reason for it to do that sort of silliness unless the meter itself is shot. Pull it out of the cluster (just a couple of crews) and have a look.

edit* the difference between early and late dashes is the pinouts and layout of the back of the cluster, and the mountings and design of the speed sensor on the back of the speedo. I had to modify mine as it came with a late model dash that had been dropped in, and the monkeys had left it all borked. Not too hard to do, if you have the original dash there to compare with.

Edited by heller44

ive got the same issues mines a 1993 my speedo is constantly out(stock) sometimes double what its meant to be. my hicas light is constantly on except for those few times where it briefly blinks off

ive got the same issues mines a 1993 my speedo is constantly out(stock) sometimes double what its meant to be. my hicas light is constantly on except for those few times where it briefly blinks off

Have you had any solutions yet?

Have you guys considered using a speedo correction kit, like Jaycar sells?

I know its not an ideal solution to the problem, but it should work.

Another thing just popped into my mind, are the senders from the gear box the same thru out the R32 GTR range?

This could also be causing issues?

tristran, that won't work. The r32 speedo is mechanical, from the gearbox right to the instrument cluster.

So.. if the speed signal on the pfc is good, that means that the drive up to the back of the cluster is good, so all it leaves is the mechanical bit after the initial joint where the cable mates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...