Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got into it a bit more today, moving to Melbourne next Sunday so want to check out state of the pistons before I go away, that way I know how much I need to save up

post-20826-1214121915_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121929_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121941_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121948_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121955_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121967_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121982_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214121991_thumb.jpg

Edited by Keeper

haha good to see your engine stand shows the good old rb26 droop too. they look terrible, ours drops about 15-20cm at the balancer as the weight goes onto it.

Also looks like you have sepearated the passenger side cv which is an utter pain in the arse. You need to pull the driveshaft right out and get a new boot on it

I got a bit of the ole RB26 droop on the engine stand too. I used another jack to support the front of the engine. Do you think its a bad idea to have all the weight on 4 bolts that hold it to the stand? With nicely sized bolts the droop is minimal but theres still a heap of weight in a fully assembled RB26. Was a bit worried about that with mine..

BTW: An easy way to remove the right hand cv shaft is to take the front diff inspection cover off and use a lever to push the shaft out from the diff center. Comes out easy like that.

Edited by Godzilla32
I got a bit of the ole RB26 droop on the engine stand too. I used another jack to support the front of the engine. Do you think its a bad idea to have all the weight on 4 bolts that hold it to the stand? With nicely sized bolts the droop is minimal but theres still a heap of weight in a fully assembled RB26. Was a bit worried about that with mine..

BTW: An easy way to remove the right hand cv shaft is to take the front diff inspection cover off and use a lever to push the shaft out from the diff center. Comes out easy like that.

once the suspension was loose i just pulled on the caliper and it wouldnt come out as the boot held it on, once the boot was off it came off easy, did i do this wrong?

Head went to Gilberts Cylinder Head Service this afternoon to do porting, clearances, clean out and open up oil returns and general recondition...

Piston out time!!!

post-20826-1214375851_thumb.jpg

The bolt tray is filling up!!!

post-20826-1214375870_thumb.jpg

And there looks to be a little blow-by, I knew this prior to opening the prick up tho

post-20826-1214375909_thumb.jpg

post-20826-1214375919_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...