Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently got a new turbo (TR43) for my car, and got a mild tune to get good AFR and some power until i get remap or aftermarket management.

my car is making 210rwkw at 15PSI with the timing advanced to 17-18 degrees. the AFR is richly on 10.5 and there's smiles all round.

the problem is i went on the freeway, closed the windows, and dropped it back to 3rd gear to hear for pinging.. and with surprise i heard that tinging metal sound.

how is this so with the rich AFR? a few people have said this is because of the timing? is the timing way too high? what should i do in this situation (apart from staying off full boost)?

Edited by dmr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224212-engine-detonation-after-mild-tune/
Share on other sites

Was base timing set correctly? there could be more then then the 15 showing.

he said the timing was set to around 17-18 degrees.

what fuel you running?

i always use 98

also is it pinging coming onto boost or uptop in the rev range or both?

Just stay off the right foot abit, and try not to load it up too much and get back on the dyno

i've never heard the ping if i flat foot it in the rev range to the limiter. the only time i heard it was when i was at 100km and rev matched to 3rd gear (which was high up in the rev range). i only held the accel down for a second before hearing the pinging so i let go of the accel.

Probably lacking certain cells on the stock ECU tune, simple as that really.

Without a full tune you cant control what's going on with any level of accuracy.

What it does on the dyno vs what it does on the street can be far apart... only a tune will stop this.

Think about it, did you drop back to 3rd on the dyno? Nope, you loaded up progressively etc.

Was base timing set correctly? there could be more then then the 15 showing.
he said the timing was set to around 17-18 degrees.

He did indeed, though I assumed that his figure came from his ECU - (which ever one that is)...

ECU figure is (usually) based on the motor having XX0 of base timing...

:Therefor: ECU readout timing, assumes a certain base timing.

10.5 AFR's is the kinda WOT figures you get from timid, unwary tuners imo.

Edited by GeeTR

yeah who tuned it? peak power is NEVER made south of 12:1 (as determined by some scientist guys somewhere) and 12:1 is generally still considered a nice safe A:F ratio, and what alot of tuners will aim for. IMO 10.5:1 is rediculiously rich.

does i only ping in the top end? if you can, take a couple of degrees out of it and give it a try again, although 17-18 degrees is pretty common.

before any of that, check base timing, heaps of tuners dont do this, they just start tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...