Jump to content
SAU Community

Good Buy?

danny_tq
 Share

Recommended Posts

BLISTC Experienced

BLISTC

Posted
Posted
Never had a car loan in over 20yrs of driving, i've leased a couple but personally I think If i can't afford to pay for it...I can't afford to drive it.

A car dealer with a 30k car will have between 2-5k of puff in their price..so min 1.5k off.

Private sales are fun, if you're any good you can generally crunch the shit out of the price and get a far better deal than a yard can offer. But never forget Caveat emptor.

not necessarily true, as when i was buying my v35, there was 1 dealer who had them for $41,999 listed on the yard price, but i said to him i only have $31,000, and he said lets go inside you can have it for that much. this was around September last year right before all these markets and the yen crashed. imo, the dealer got the cars in cheaper than usual and hiked the price up. So it pays to know how much they are ACTUALLY worth via an import first, then add on GST overheads, dealer costs, wages etc. and you kind of get a rough price of how much the car was pay for in japan.

These days however the v35's are worth much more to bring in because of the poor exchange rate. So there is less margin on the cars being brought in, meaning less to haggle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225069-good-buy/page/2/#findComment-4411167
Share on other sites
Eldubb Enthusiast

Eldubb

Posted
Posted

I can also recommend Nagaoya Motors - i live in qld and they were great to deal with over the phone/emails. very upfront and no bs, as nismo mentioned - alex was good to deal with. make sure you ask them to send hi-res pics as he is happy to do it, and of course get it checked out over there by someone you trust if you can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225069-good-buy/page/2/#findComment-4412335
Share on other sites
g33k Community Regular

g33k

Posted
Posted (edited)

I unlike the rest of the forum members wouldn't recommend Nagoya Motors, i went to inspect a white 2dr coupe with 17K(ish) - the timing belt was squeeking, the car stalled twice during the test drive with the clutch FULLY down.

It also claimed to have a grade 4 auction exterior, the rear bumper was a different paint and there was clear rubber wear for a car with that level..

My opinion of course.......

I will agree Alex was a nice guy.... but not sure i believe the odo reading...

Edited by g33k
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225069-good-buy/page/2/#findComment-4412774
Share on other sites
Touge Kyousou Experienced

Touge Kyousou

Posted
Posted
I unlike the rest of the forum members wouldn't recommend Nagoya Motors, i went to inspect a white 2dr coupe with 17K(ish) - the timing belt was squeeking, the car stalled twice during the test drive with the clutch FULLY down.

It also claimed to have a grade 4 auction exterior, the rear bumper was a different paint and there was clear rubber wear for a car with that level..

My opinion of course.......

I will agree Alex was a nice guy.... but not sure i believe the odo reading...

That's a worry. Though i'm not sure if it was the timing belt squeeking as i'm quite certain the VQ35DE runs a timing chain. Would've been some form of drive belt though. The stalling with clutch down is a big red light though haha.

And yeah, if you swap clusters the odo readout will change as it's stored on the cluster's elec boards. If you know where to look, generally you'll find people also able to tamper with your original cluster to change the readout as well. Pretty gay but oh well.. just inspect it well or get stateroads etc to check it. Imho, km's generally isn't too big a deal long as servicing etc has been done well. Just make sure to do a compression test and check for head gasket leaks (into the spark plug chamber).. still too new to leak to outside and drip down.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225069-good-buy/page/2/#findComment-4415382
Share on other sites
mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted
The one thing I stress to everyone looking at imports - judge the car for what it is and ignore the km's.

On the above that car has travelled approx 4600km a year. Given it's not a super rare or special car in Japan, how many people you know in Australia that buy a Commodore and only travel 5000km's a year in it?

Unless it's got log books, I would ignore the k's and look at the condition.

I do and don't agree with you on this issue, yes Km's do not matter but why, because you have absolutely no idea how long the engine has been running to achieve those km's. This is why heavy machinery use time not km's. These Japanese cars spend hours in conjested traffic but travel short distances. just my 2c :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225069-good-buy/page/2/#findComment-4415651
Share on other sites
Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted
I do and don't agree with you on this issue, yes Km's do not matter but why, because you have absolutely no idea how long the engine has been running to achieve those km's. This is why heavy machinery use time not km's. These Japanese cars spend hours in conjested traffic but travel short distances. just my 2c :D

Good point there...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225069-good-buy/page/2/#findComment-4417398
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...