Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

most of u know my car, and thats its fkn LOUD!

so im lookin at changin the zorst, prob put a big resonator in and maybe twin 3inch mufflers, that way i cant get it to a legal limit and snot restrict the car as there is plenty that has to get through :mad:

any1 know some good places to get it done, and who will also look aftert me :)

cheers

jet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22524-good-exhaust-place/
Share on other sites

thanks dale. If you want to be exactly 90db go down to Daalder Exhaust in BoxHill. Ive installed their 'special' resonators and now the car is much quieter, less dronee noise in the car as well. Oh btw if you ever get busted for epa testing even with the 'special' resonator, go back down to Daalder Exhaust as they are epa testers as well and can pass you straight away.

Do you even read the threads Jet or do you just whore them!????

Daaler exhausts is a good place, there was a thread about it just last week in here. I've been there myself to get a noise test done on my car, they seemed to know their stuff, and should be able to fab you up something.

As an EPA approved noise station, they can also clear a noise EPA as well...

JET dude theres a guy in knoxfield, ferntree gully area, his name is Pete and he owns FERNDALE EXHAUSTS

Honestly man this guys quality is top shelf and his prices blow away the others...

I got 3' from the turbo back with Hi Flow cat for $650 so he wont charge much man.... check for his number at www.yellowpages.com and call him man!

Good Luck

Originally posted by whistla

i cant get enough of the RB burble....dont know why youd want to quieten it :)

I agree but there are 'certain' legalities sometimes :)

PM me too Eric, I wants to know more about this resi, especially after I get a front pipe [one day].

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...