Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just puttin an EOI atm seeing whats out there atm NOW FOR SALE!!!! NOW TAKING GENUINE OFFERS

located: Brisbane

price: EOI really atm ...but to keep mods happy around 12-13k NEGOTIABLE

extra info: vehicle does not have rego and needs mod plates, IT IS COMPLIED, and it CAN be plated and regoed though

will also take things off for cheaper sale.

OPEN TO SWAPS FOR CEFIROS LAURELS and R32 4 DOOR

contact: 0411023878 or PM

Engine:

1988 Nissan Silvia - sunroof - HUD

SR20DET VCT Blacktop out of s14 (series 1)

Modified CA18/S14 engine harness

Chipped and tuned ECU

Cometic 1.5mm head gasket

Just Jap front mount intercooler with modified hybrid piping

20 thou oversized forged pistons

ACL big end main and thrust forged bearings

Greddy Type R bov

Custom thermo fan setup (AUIII Falcon thermos)

Just Jap stainless steel exhaust manifold

GT2860rs disco potato w/ .64 exhaust housing

2.5" stainless steel split dump pipe

2.5" stainless steel front pipe

Stainless steel de-cat pipe

3" straight thru pipe to flange with bolt on cannon

Boost tee

K&N pod filter

Walbro Fuel Pump

Engine Dampener

NISMO Fuel pressure regulator

Transmisson:

S14 gearbox

Short shifter

NPC heavy duty 5 puck brass button clutch with a HKS 1200kg pressure plate

Solid gearbox mount

Suspension and Handling:

Solid steering shaft spacer

R180 locked diff

5 stud conversion

F - s14 LCA, S14 stub axle, s14 hub, r32 brake calipers (4 pot) and rotors

R - s15 hubs, s15 rotors, s13 caliper

Adjustable castor rods

S13 steering rack w/ R32 skyline tie rods and tie rod ends with 10mm spacers in rack

KTS Hicas lock bar

Tein HA coilovers with adjustable camber tops

Rear Strut Brace

Interior:

Safety 21 - Full 7 point rollcage bolt in

DRiFT steering wheel

Dildo gearknob

Jap extension mirror

Drift button

FET Turbo timer

Fibreglass door cards

Custom switch panel setup

Killswitch

Fully stripped interior and sound deadening

Interior painted silver

Autogage 52mm Boost gauge

Autogage 52mm Oil Temp gauge

Autogage 52mm Water Temp gauge

Fire extinguisher

Fully sick neons

Exterior:

Genuine silvia square headlights

Xenon headlight bulbs

Black corner lamps

BN side skirts

BN front bar

Vertex rear bar

Flared and pumped rear guards

Clear taillights

F: HP Racing wheels 18x9 tyres: Falken Ziex 235/40/18

R: HP Racing wheels 18x10 tyres: Falken Ziex 255/35/18

25mm bolt on wheel spacers on rear

8mm floater spacers on front

Paint: -Gloss white paint

-Black roof with heavy gold sparkle

show me what you got!!!

thanks

-josh

post-36807-1214268706_thumb.jpg

post-36807-1214268730_thumb.jpg

post-36807-1214268752_thumb.jpg

post-36807-1214268789_thumb.jpg

post-36807-1214268831_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225281-built-sr20-blacktop-s13/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...