Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey peeps thinking of getting these rimms for my car if they fit.

what do you reckon??from what i remember they measure in at:

front:19x9.5 35+

rear:19x 10.5 35+

post-42381-1214362132_thumb.jpg

and this is the car theyll be goin onto...

post-42381-1214362269_thumb.jpg

oh and any ideas on which rimms u think will look good let me know

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225440-yl859-versus-rimms/
Share on other sites

yea they look really nice in person. ive tried 18x12 rimms (didnt fit) and 18x11 with a crazy offset of -19 these were about an each too wide. so i was thinkg spacers on these. hopefully there wide enough as i really like the style

are the guards Dmax items? they look freakin sick so does the wheels ;D hehehe

not quite sure what guards they are but definitly not dmax. mine measure 75mm all around or there abouts. ive kinda got my head set on them just hope they fit ok

Yeah those widths are fat but they won't fill the guards with that offset. No worries though, just run spacers and you'll be sweet. More width is even more $$ on tyres. Some 20mm spacers might do the trick?

EDIT: I just re-read your post above about the 18x11 wheels that were an inch too wide with an offset of -19 (!!!). In that case you'll need bigger spacers than 20mm! Those guards obviously flare more than they look to me in the pics.

Edited by HuH
Umm offset? Don't think +35 is gonna look flush. You'll need at least -6 for that to fill anything. And don't buy rims with crap offset with the intention of putting spacers on.

yea thats wat im afraid of.yea the use of spacers is a last resort but just want to make sure to see what they look like.

you need +10 or similar offset with ur guards...

hmm the offset the guy gave me said it was a guess as the 19's arent in the country yet. the offset maybe lower.i know they wont sit flush but will just have to wait and see how they look.

and yea ill post pics when i eventually get them on :D

Why the hell did you bother getting wide guards and then intend on getting wheels that won't fill them at all? It will look like absolute crap. To get those wheels with a +35 offset looking decent, you'd need 100mm spacers and thats just not going to happen.

Those 18x11 -19 wheels will fit with EASE if you stretch some 255 tyres over them. Don't be weak, get them!

just measured the wheels and width today. standard wheels measure 6.5 yea. the width of the guards measure 85mm so thats about 3.5 inches making a total of 10inches wide to fill the guards

or am i missing something here??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
×
×
  • Create New...