Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heres the question...

i got a budget of around $800 - $1,000 give or take a hundred or so for a system for my r33... what you guys rekon i do? i'm talking the works, if subs where, where for the amp, how many speakers, etc... what would you guys do in my case...

i already got a deck- kenwood.... 50w x 4 blah blah blah... seen it in JB-HIFI for $499... nothing drastic in that... bought it when i got my car about 2 months ago not knowing what i would do (if anything) to the audio system for the future... the stock skyline speakers are finished, gone, done...

so what you guys think i should do? just interested in afew suggestions diff to mine...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22557-advice-for-a-sound-system/
Share on other sites

When talking high quality systems that includes a sub and amp, a $1000 budget is a little small even given the fact that you have the deck.

But if that is the absolute maximum I'd suggest this (which is one we have done many times too just quietly)

Boston FS-60 6" splits at the front (doors and kicks)

Audison SRx4 amplifier

Jl 12W0 subwoofer

Stinger cable.

You would probably end up spending $1200-$1400 when you factor things like installation and sound deadening in but I tell ya what, the end result would be well worth it. :O

if you never plan to run subs, you can get a good set of splits and a pair of 6x9s and a small 4 channel that will do the job. A very cheap stereo i did for a guy, 1 x Alpine Type S Dual voice coil, 1 Alpine M200, Wireing kit from Autobarn and a set of cheap splits running off the head unit that was in hte car, cost, $600 neat, but that was building the own box out of timber that he supplied. It goes off its head too, the box is ported btw

Garys Car Radio - High St, Preston

For around $1100 I got (installed in my old vl)

2 x Clarion 10" Free Airs

2 x Clarion 6" Door Splits

1 x VNET2100 AMP (For Subs)

1 x VNET450 AMP (For Splits)

1 x Custom sub box install with 2 x 3" port holes to the parcel shelf. This was the best sounding stereo system I had heard for its price. It would outperform installs of 2k+

I already had my own head unit (just like u)

Yeah Fhrx has the idea,

Buy the best stuff you can afford, even if you need to lay buy.

AMP, SPliTS and Sub. Buy them in that order.

I wouldn't recommend a wiring kit for a Skyline, you don't need half that shit.

You'll need RCA cables long enough to go from the front to the back. About a metre of BIG power wire and a Metre of BIG earth. (get the same size)

And you'll need speaker wire to run from the amp back to the front speakers.

Check out the other threads in here.

Hey guys, just starting to look into the audio thing, so pretty unsure of all the specifics, but... can someone simply explain the concepts of chanels on an amp with reference to simply powering a sub. I was originally thinking of just putting in coax 6" in the front (or 6.5") and 6x9's in the the rear shelf, but i think i am turning away from the 6x9s and go the sub. I am at this stage just planning on having an amp for the sub, and just run the components off the head unit. Basically i want to check that there is no point in getting a 4 channel amp just for the sub, and what the consensus is on component speakers and needing their own amps. Bit long winded, probably as a result of me not really knowing much on the topic.

Cheers.

ofoofoo .. sub is always best for bass .. can't be beat with normal speakers ... if u're stuff for space ... go a 10" ... as for amp ... if its just for bass .. then get a monoblock amp ... they are designed just for subs and they are much more efficient for subs than a normal amp so u win with price/performance there ... i'm currently running my splits of the head unit right now and it works pretty good ... but if u really want it to sound good then get an amp ... an example of a good cheap system would be a cheap alpine monoblock ... about 300 ... 10" alpine type S ... thats about 150 maybe .. 50 for the sub box if u make it urself ... that will give u good bass ... forget the back speakers ... spend big on the fronts ... that will be a killer system .... good luck

Cheers hippy. Hopefully will spend my money in the right places - looking at DLS stuff. i think if i am going to spend the cash on decent speakers, should probably go an amp for the fronts. hoping to do it all for about 1600 (including head unit). i'll let you know.

cheers, was thinking car toys. Dont really know of anywhere else which has a good range of quality speakers (i need to check out some place called GT audio or something also). Have worked it out with friend - looking at two CA20 amps (1 x 170 WRMS), a classic series 12" sub, and hopefully the Reference series 6.5" components for front. add a couple of hundred for wiring/box, and with a bit of bargaining looking probably at $1700-1800. Then there is just a whole heap of work to do.

at the moment i cant do much but sit at home (doctors orders), but yeah i will come out (to a cruise) at some stage. Once i add some more stuff.. :D oh mine is black - absolute washing pain in the arse; true to what they say, the first black car you own tends to be the last black car you own.

$1000 isn't gonna buy you much in terms of quality really...but i guess what i'd do is

alpine type R splits or some focal polykevlar's 2nd hand - $350/300

or some Hertz splits new ~ $300

2nd hand Alpine Type R Sub or some RF punch's- $250

$100 for wiring and sub box building (4Ga)

Vnet 4100 2nd hand Amp - $300

or jaycar 4x100rms amp

no rear speakers, no point.

$1000 exactly

put in 100rms into each speaker, and put 200rms into the sub

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...