Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i have a 33 with a rb26 with forged pistons, shotpeened rods, new T04Z and old skool Haltech E6k. I was driving it a couple months ago when i could hear a slight ticking which i thought was nothing major but after a good beating the slight ticking turned into a sound more like a jackhammer and when i accelerated the oil pressure would drop. Stupid me being so sick of having the car on tow truck i decided to keep on driving and try to make it home. After like 5klm the oil light came on and the car died. Just wondering what people think would have happened and how much damage could i have done? The cars been sitting now for nearly six months untouched due too lack of funds. If anyone would be willing to come help me take the head off and see what damage i've done, i'd be more than happy to shout them their drink and/or drug of choice as long as it takes. cheers Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225784-rb26-oil-pump-problem/
Share on other sites

hi i have a 33 with a rb26 with forged pistons, shotpeened rods, new T04Z and old skool Haltech E6k. I was driving it a couple months ago when i could hear a slight ticking which i thought was nothing major but after a good beating the slight ticking turned into a sound more like a jackhammer and when i accelerated the oil pressure would drop. Stupid me being so sick of having the car on tow truck i decided to keep on driving and try to make it home. After like 5klm the oil light came on and the car died. Just wondering what people think would have happened and how much damage could i have done? The cars been sitting now for nearly six months untouched due too lack of funds. If anyone would be willing to come help me take the head off and see what damage i've done, i'd be more than happy to shout them their drink and/or drug of choice as long as it takes. cheers Luke

You should have stopped it when it started the ticking noise. You could have just done a crank polish and replaced bearings plus a few other small items. Now, because you drove it til it jackhammered, then drove it more and more, you have worn the bigend bearings completely out and the rod is probably running straight on the crank surface or the bearings may have fused to the crank. The main bearings would be stuffed too because of all the metal particles going through the oil. You have likely stuffed your turbo for the same reason. Stuffed oil pump for the same reason...camshafts could be worn now also.

If the engine stopped, that is not a good sign, especially because the oil light came on just before it.

I would say 8k would get it back in order again.

don't even bother taking the head off, you are wasting your time.

Mate the easiest way to get the head off is to pull the motor out and what you see won't tell you anything if you lost oil pressure.

Good luck it would take more than a few drinks for anybody to do it. Probably a whole days work.

Same thing happened to me mate, and i did the same thing as you; kept driving.

My turbos were fcuked, head required extensive machining, had to get a new block and crank, etc, etc. Unfortunately for you, figure out how much it'll cost then double it.

Shaun.

Thanks for the replies, I knew the bottom end would be stuffed and expected the head to have some damage. Is there any way to tell if the turbo is alright it was like brand knew and under warranty? Also if it is damaged do you reckon i could get away with returning it? Is there any workshops in brisbane that will pull the engine down and tell me whats up for a reasonable price? I've got like 10000 - 15000 for the rebuild once my xr8 sells.

Thanks for the replies, I knew the bottom end would be stuffed and expected the head to have some damage. Is there any way to tell if the turbo is alright it was like brand knew and under warranty? Also if it is damaged do you reckon i could get away with returning it? Is there any workshops in brisbane that will pull the engine down and tell me whats up for a reasonable price? I've got like 10000 - 15000 for the rebuild once my xr8 sells.

I run a cutout system on our car that cuts ignition and fuel pumps once oil pressure drops below 20psi, it uses an override switch which is used to start the car (no oil pressure on startup). It has already saved 1 engine.

send it down to me...cost a couple of hundred in freight..ive got one coming arriving from up your way to build this week and freight cost wasnt as bad as first expected.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...