Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All,

Just wondering if anyone had contacts where we can buy alloy cores without tanks from, preferably in sydney area.

Large cores required either std top to bottom - or side tanked cores would be better to create a new twin pass radiator if i can with remote tank.

i'll be making a new radiator for an R33 Gtst and im hoping to these cores arent too expensive.

i'll also be looking at the vt commie v6 cores as they are side tanks and pretty thick std from memory - will have to confirm core sizes soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225799-alloy-radiator-cores/
Share on other sites

Hey All,

Just wondering if anyone had contacts where we can buy alloy cores without tanks from, preferably in sydney area.

Large cores required either std top to bottom - or side tanked cores would be better to create a new twin pass radiator if i can with remote tank.

i'll be making a new radiator for an R33 Gtst and im hoping to these cores arent too expensive.

i'll also be looking at the vt commie v6 cores as they are side tanks and pretty thick std from memory - will have to confirm core sizes soon.

i was looking at this ages ago, i think from memory for a decent sized good quality core it was about $400ish for an ally one.. after factoring in the cost of the neck, etc, blah, i'd rather pay someone like pwr $750 and save me the f**k around... maybe the place i got the price from was rippin me but..

thats definately possible.

and if anyony knows if you can join 2 thinner alloy cores together without having major flow issues that could be an option also.

Its not worth the effort mate, your better off tracking down a radiator out of a AU Ford onwards and make your own tanks :(

Its not worth the effort mate, your better off tracking down a radiator out of a AU Ford onwards and make your own tanks :blush:

yep i'll have to look into the space that is available and spend some time at a natrad store trying to get one that will work. i think the commodore one we used in a mates sprinter for this was about $110

yep i'll have to look into the space that is available and spend some time at a natrad store trying to get one that will work. i think the commodore one we used in a mates sprinter for this was about $110

only just saw this.. having trouble remembering the brand name of the cores they use to order in when i was working at the radiator shop.. either way if you messure up wat size core you want you can get it custom ordered and usually isnt to exxy all of the companys that make cores will do it..

as long as it works out cheaper than a Just jap cooling pro i'll be happy :)

not something i HAVE to get done, but i want to make one - radiator filler necks arent price listed from motorsport connections so i'll find that price out tomorrow hopefully.

i'll be running a remote filler so there is no cap on the radiator itself (like a falcon with it on a remote reserve tank) so i can weld up a new canister well above the top of the motor for bleeding.

would like to have multiple returns similar to how the GTRs water outlets are across the TB's, but i'll need to look into the water routing in the rb25 heads.

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah best bet is PWR or Natrad, Pwr is the better choice from memory it will sting you bout $400ish.

If you plan on making it yourself make up some cover plate to protect the fins when welding and some blanks to test the rad, I normally pressurize them to about 20 psi then submerge them in water to find any pin holes, just make sure that before you go to weld it up to clean all the flux and solder off of the joints your about to weld.

Try useing scotch brite rolocs ( the brown ones) there not too aggresive and will give you a nice clean joint then wipe it down with acetone and it should come out a treat if you need anymore help drop me a pm I can't tell you how many different rad's I've made too many to mention.

Oh and if your makeing a res tank for it get some spun end caps for the top and bottom you can get alot of different shapes just pick the one you like most and a bit of ali tube and the jobs done! good luck mate

Oh yeah another trick bit is to put your oil cooler into one of the side tanks it look the biz and works a treat too hope that helps.

Almost forgot buy some spun donuts too for your exit pipe its a much tighter rad than any elbow you can get and then you can have it come of in any angle you like and have a few more peice's left over if you want to make up some hard lines to return to the engine.

Edited by The BOP

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...