Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers Thomas,

Not a lot of room thats for sure.

Yep, just waiting for some valve shims and other stuff to come in from Japan ordered through nissan Blacktown.

Can't wait to get her on the road!!

Should be the longer drive on yours, get back to us on what you find. My engine was out of an R33 GTR by the engine number as it was changed before it came to Aus I'm sure.

I was going to go a fresh set of stock pistons, rings, bearings originally, or just the forged standard size pistons to freshen up till I found the scores.

Bore and hone cost $350 (sort of a favour) thats why I got away with keeping costs down, head skimed, cleaned etc $90. All the rest, done myself.

The hardest thing is not spending more money on crap you didn't put in your goal, budget. It really can snowball, gotta draw the line somewhere lol.

Edited by GTRsean
  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers Thomas,

Not a lot of room thats for sure.

Yep, just waiting for some valve shims and other stuff to come in from Japan ordered through nissan Blacktown.

Can't wait to get her on the road!!

Should be the longer drive on yours, get back to us on what you find. My engine was out of an R33 GTR by the engine number as it was changed before it came to Aus I'm sure.

I was going to go a fresh set of stock pistons, rings, bearings originally, or just the forged standard size pistons to freshen up till I found the scores.

Bore and hone cost $350 (sort of a favour) thats why I got away with keeping costs down, head skimed, cleaned etc $90. All the rest, done myself.

The hardest thing is not spending more money on crap you didn't put in your goal, budget. It really can snowball, gotta draw the line somewhere lol.

Hey Sean..

Hopefully I find out about that drive sometime this week.

Definately know where your coming from about drawing the line.. Like I said same situation as you were in a few weeks ago.. Yet to open her and decide what needs to be done all pending on condition..

Cheers Tomek

coming along nicely! :P cant wait to start on mine..

as for the budget thing here's my story.. was going to put the n1 motor i bought straight in.. took 5 months to get here so i started buying bits and pieces.

then when the motor arrived i was told to pull it down to inspect, which moved me towards a full rebuild, lucky as there are some small scores up and down the bores on most cylinders, so a rebuild was a must.

hopefully will finish up under 10k haha

Cheers Andrew.

Wish I had an N1 block lol, nah, not for my application :(

Scores in the bores?, how deep are they?. It would be nice if they disappeared with a light hone would be nice, but I guess you will take it out to 86.5?

  • 3 weeks later...

Nearly there!

post-12712-1221734795_thumb.jpg

match ported manifolds while they were out.

post-12712-1221734837_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221734885_thumb.jpg

New shims to do valve clearances.

post-12712-1221734921_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221734957_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221734990_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221735043_thumb.jpg

Bolting up as much as I can before it goes back in.

Craved is nearly finished. Loving his work.

post-12712-1221735136_thumb.jpg

Nope. I'm happy with what I put in it. I'll kick myself hard later, but N1 pumps go ok.

Still have to find out what housing I have here, that I was going to put the billet gears in and use in the engine. It's not an N1 pump so I didn't use it due to being unsure of what I had. Still don't know, no one knows.

post-12712-1221741540_thumb.jpg

The one on the left. No idea?????

Have I lost anyone lol.

Tomoz morning is the plan.

The other thing I did the other day was setup and adjust the inline throttle setup. Completed that in accordance with the manual, and it's pretty easy after you read it like 5 times lol. Nice and smooth and all good.

There was a couple o little things this arvo to get done before she goes in, like fit the balancer and torque to 350,000 foot pounds lol. And fish out a washer I dropped down the front cover GRRRRRRRRR! It's out phew.

Got covers off Craved today :P:P .

The guys who spotted the covers in the shed were blown away lol, no complaints here lol.

post-12712-1221826523_thumb.jpg

Engine bays is a bit neater.

post-12712-1221826555_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221826586_thumb.jpg

Just befor balancer was fitted.

Edited by GTRsean

Thanks Brad!

What a long day. Tired and got a headache.

Had to improvise with no chain for the engine crane this morning, (mate borrowed it a month ago).

Twin plate clutch was the first thing to go on this morning.

Cracked the s#%ts with crawling under the bloody thing later in the day. :D

Had a mate help me but had not much experience, so I'll be finishing up tomorrow.

To do tomorrow:

Bolt up gbox x member

Fit center tailshaft bearing mount

Fit a couple of belts and fan

CAS sensor

wiring

pipework

front suspension top nuts

gear shifter

Fill up oil, and do up sump plug!

Fill front diff.

Fill power steering

Coolant and bleed

Crank over, then start!

Bed in engine. ;)

post-12712-1221911306_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911340_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911365_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911390_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911433_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911463_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911496_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221911524_thumb.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...