Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ha ha. All done!!!! YAY!!!

Finished off all the little crappy stuff in the engine bay and under the car then at 4:30pm finally ran it on the starter to get oil flowing. Could hear every cylinder, nice.

Then started it for real, fired into life after 3 seconds : )

Drove to the servo and loaded it up on the way there and back, with the waste gates free so no boost to help bed in rings.

Came back, dropped the oil and put more mineral oil in and changed filter and hooked waste gate rods back up. Went for another drive, nice! Good to be driving her again.

Only problem may be that I need a new idle control valve :( as the engine revs (flares) by itself continuously at idle.

Sounds throatier than before too.

post-12712-1221993103_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993130_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993167_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993197_thumb.jpg

post-12712-1221993231_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Thanks :(. In the end I think I owe myself 5K+ lol. Great experience, and knowing the fact you built it yourself!

Well, on the stock bottom end it was putting out 350RWKW on 17psi. So I'd be happy with the same amount (read 500hp atw). Mainly due to he stock gearbox, and I built it to handle the power reliably without worrying about what the bottom end is like.

Went for a drive tonight, and it's really smooth and sounds gutsy lol. I'm only taking it to 4500 to 5000 at the moment at part throttle. Put 110k on it lol.

I'll book it in for a tune once it's got some kays under the belt........we'll see.

great work sean!

looks nice. and i love ur display pic. car looks smooooth as!

cant wait to see the dyno results. sounds promising!

Cheers. They really like taking your money lol.

Unplug it. Need to meet up for a cruz soon when i get my car back.

I'll try it out Brad. I also need to make another dummy load for the hicas solenoid I pulled out of the engine bay to stop the computer thinking theres a fault.

Cruise, for sure. I'll do the Putty cruise in October now :banana:.

Damn Sean, very nice and very fast work - fkn great effort!!

going to bug you for a ride in it soon if i get a night out i'll bring the SLR and take some shots!

Thanks Chris. The engine covers you did for me look awsome with the polished stuff so kudos to you. When we get a chance (read time off from busy schedule) for sure.

unreal sean. ive booked the gtr in for tune weekend after the long weekend at uni group. so will all have to go for cruise very soon. i just need front bumper now!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm glad it's done. Now done over 200k, and it's smooth as. Will be great when you get yours tuned.

I'd also like to thank everyone who gave some advice and imput on how to go about doing this project. 3 months seemed forever to me but it was pretty quick in the end.

post-12712-1222094499_thumb.jpg

Okay! Put 1200km on it so far, changed oil and filter again at 1000k and check up and tune on dyno is booked for tomorrow morning (only good thing about shift work lol). Gonna check a/f ratios etc, to make sure it's happy when I use the upper end of the rev range :P .

It has a pretty beaty, cammy idle, only using 12psi to be safe lol. I guess I'll have to check nuts and bolts are tight too etc. Twin plate clutch is great compared to the triple I had for the street.

Also the engine has no slap or rattles when started and warming up. Engine builder I took the block and pistons to, recommended running piston to bore clearance at 3.5thou so I'm happy.

Edited by GTRsean
Congratulation Sean..

Amazing how quick the build was done mate specially with work space..

Looking forward to updates.

Cheers :(

Okay, got it dynoed and cleaned up this morning. Found a couple of things. The fuel reg might need changing as it's a bit sus when revs are high at full load, more fuel was added to compensate but not too bad as it's on min 11 PSI boost anyway. Ordered in one from nissan. It idles at 1400RPM, idle control valve is letting too much air through(o ring inside is non existant), and I cleaned the throttles :D even though I read a topic about not to do that years ago!! It takes the sealing coating off the inside of the butterfly to bore seal.

Other than that, all good and since cam timing is sweet the gaph is great. It'll go back to the dyno in 2000km to get a high boost tune lol.

post-12712-1222827842_thumb.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...