Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im heading to regency.

I took out my PowerFC. installed a standard ECU which I picked up from someone here.

I was told you can install the standard ecu and the car will run fine. regardless if you were running a powerFC before.

However the car wont boost. its running very very rough. little pops and all sorts of bullshit.

friend thinks its teh fuel mapping. but wouldnt that be part of this ECU?>

Im guessing ive bought a faulty ECU, or some other little prob that just wants to piss me off even more. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/
Share on other sites

well seems I was informed wrong.

car has

HKS afm, blitz FMIC, oil cooler, greddy EBC 14 psi. exhaust and a couple little things.

put the PowerFC back in and it runs fine.

well looks like im going to un-screw the powerFC casing and put the standard casing over it. Im pretty sure regency wouldnt take the casing apart and rip my kick panels out etc.

just unplug the hand controller.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3984382
Share on other sites

yeah been thru there 2 times before. never been tested for emissions. heard it cost them alot to do for some reason ?

Ill just go there act dumb. say what I have to and suck up.

never been tested for exhaust either. but this car is alittle louder than previous rides.

I heard you can spot weld a silencer of some sort and have it removed after?

your mate hide his controller ? why didnt he just unplug it ? doesnt need the controller plugged in to run does it ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3984402
Share on other sites

When you remove the stock ECU, after a period of time without power doesnt it loose its tables? And when you re-install it, you need to let it idle for a period of time, turn rear demistor on, let it idle, turn air con on, let it idle - to give it a base map. Would following this procedure help the stock ECU run a bit better?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3986559
Share on other sites

be careful if you pull the hand controller out coz it stuffed my mates map's up for a while

and then when u plug it back in it goes all wierd for ages

i would do the best to hide it up under the dash and tape the wire around one of the looms and try to hide it as best as possible.

but make sure that regency cant see it

they wont pull panels out though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3986578
Share on other sites

thats wat i thought..

but i guess not?? might be safer using the stock ecu case on the pfc! as a few ppl have stated! thats wat im gonna do! and just keep the HC in the glove box! and pull it out on thrash days!

Edited by rad33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3986699
Share on other sites

well seems I was informed wrong.

car has

HKS afm, blitz FMIC, oil cooler, greddy EBC 14 psi. exhaust and a couple little things.

put the PowerFC back in and it runs fine.

well looks like im going to un-screw the powerFC casing and put the standard casing over it. Im pretty sure regency wouldnt take the casing apart and rip my kick panels out etc.

just unplug the hand controller.

see above..........that's why it won't handle the stock ECU.....different resolution to std AFM!

make sure you remove or hide that EBC before you go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3986814
Share on other sites

yeah its all sweet. EBC is out. everythin is fine.

stock ECU casing over powerfc. only way they can tell if its a powerFC is if they rip the kick panel off and pull the casing of the ECU. they will prolly take the kick panels off but surely not unscrew the casing and look.

all I gotta do is find a cheap way to quieten the exhaust.

Im moving house in the next couple weeks too so money in limited.

anyone know a cheap way to quieten the exhaust ?

baffle plate ? spot weld silencer ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226295-power-fc/#findComment-3986963
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the head expecting to find broken and bent valves, but instead found number 1 at TDC and cylinder 2 at the top of its cylinder stroke as well, thought that was weird and proceeded to push cylinder 2 back down until it either bottomed out on its other piston half or the conrod either way we found the issue kind of,  now to remove the engine and see how the block looks, hopefully its just the top off a piston.  
    • A little more work this week.  Fitted astra power steering pump in the boot with a lowe fabrication bracket. Gave the pump a good clean, fitted Anderson plug and high pressure fitting. With the intercooler being flipped under rad support factory headlights weren't going to work. Ordered a set of origin battle lights, they arrived so got them test fitted. Will require some fiddling to fit nice but was an easy quick option for now. And today we pulled out the manual Rb gearbox and test fitted a ZF 8HP50. It will fit with some casting tabs cut off and small tap of the tunnel with a hammer. Pick up the adapter plate Wednesday so hopefully all bolted in Friday and measure for tailshaft which will be a 2 piece. Been doing a lot of ecu, pdm and tcu loom design so when comes to wiring it in a few weeks will all go smoothly.
    • FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
    • One piece driveshaft I would recommend a dual CV setup otherwise stick to OEM. I have heard most one piece driveshafts cause excess vibration otherwise. The transmission grind I'm quite familiar with. You can try shockproof gear oil, otherwise you need a new transmission. The shifter is extremely simple on these cars. If you want pull apart the assembly and replace the plastic bushing but I doubt that fixes anything. The tail light issue is very common, unfortunately new tail lights are long discontinued. The trunk antenna going up always is because your radio doesn't have a true power antenna control, just remote amp power signal. There is a blank switch plate that you can pop out and install a switch for this or alternatively source a head unit that has proper antenna control. Throttle body sticking you have to disambiguate by disconnecting the cable and seeing if the linkages are the problem or something else. There is a procedure to adjust them, refreshing them is also somewhat involved if that's the issue. I have dealt with many of these issues. Old cars really are fractals of problems. The more you fix the more you discover there is to fix.
    • Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.
×
×
  • Create New...