Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i havent got alot of time to read ruby's thread, but i am with him

no i wont put my head in a cheap helmet too. unless the expensive ones are on sale :D

and if it aint got a chrome sticker watch out, u could be buying crap.

for once chrome is actually good lol

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Threads like this one restore my faith in this community - that it actually IS capable of vigorous debate without the deterioation of the thread.

Yeah, good call chops, there's no point getting too heated for the sake of an opinion.....having said that, I'm guilty of almost tearing someones head off recently over the 'LCD vs Plasma" debate, only because he was being a keyboard warrior & a smartass but everything I've read in here so far is fairly constructive.

Would be a pretty boring world if we all agreed with each other 100% of the time!

With regards to that certification comany CSi - there's a reason thair sticker has that "funny" looking mark on it, apparently they are the only company that can use it:

http://www.csi-certification.com/

It seems they are a legitimate certification company, although their client list seems to consist mainly of Chinese manufacturers.

My theory on helmets (and many other things incidentally) has always been - use what's recommended by the guys that actually do the activity for a living.

Ha ha, I told you that there was a little China man responsible for these little red stickers Andy, lol :D

One of the big problems I have with certification, particularly being in an industry whereby I am continually asked to assess to a particular standard - whether it be an Australian Standard, a British Standard, or an American ASTM standard - is the suitability and currency of the standard.

One of the Australian Standards we are often asked to test to is simply out of date and hasn't kept pace with acceptable trends - sure the standard is CURRENT, but the fact that the sample passes the standard isn't necessarily an indicator of great quality.

So without really knowing the test procedures, limits for the test parameters and how the sample performed with relation to those parameters it makes it really hard to choose something nased simply on a "PASS" rating.

Two items have achieved a "PASS" although one could be many times superior to the other.

The big prolem is that the information required to make a truly informed choice is simply not available to the consumer, except in rare occasions where a manufacturer makes it available, and then it would only be if the sample far exceeded the requirements. No-one is going to tell you their product only just passed, are they?

I hear what you're saying chops. I reckon you'll find the ADR that comes from DOTARS in Canberra is one of the most stringest testing procedures in the world. I attached a PDF file with pages & pages of info earlier in this thread which I think includes various testing procedures that aren't even used overseas. So having said that, any helmet or piece of equipment with our little chrome sticker on it has been to hell & back!

I had a look at that, and I agree it's pretty stringent - the main point I was trying to make is that even two helmets that pass that same standard are not necessarily created equal, just because they pass.

yeah, no doubt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...