Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Low Beam

charlie22
 Share

Recommended Posts

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted

100w low beam is pretty intense. sure other cars can still see the road when you are heading at them?

Keep in mind the lights were designed for xenon bulbs (if you have these headlights), which operate at a low temperature.

The 100w globes will certainly produce more heat and may effect the plastics or chrome in the light. However, R34 high beam are a standard bulb (non HID xenon) and therefore fingers crossed if it can cope with those it can cope with low beam being 100w

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226502-r34-low-beam/#findComment-3989509
Share on other sites
some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
hey guys and girls, i just changed my low beam bulbs to 100watters. one was blown so i just changed both(i "borrowed" them from work :P ) , i was just wondering because the 100w get alot hotter than 55w will they get hot enough to melt or disform my headlight covers?

At 100W I would say there is a good chance you will be doing damage to your headlights, not to mention you will blind other drivers, and get pulled over by the next policeman to see your lights :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226502-r34-low-beam/#findComment-3992769
Share on other sites
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
i've had them in for about a week now and haven't had one person flash me and no trouble with the fuzz apart from a speeding fine.

Low beams are set lower than High beams, so I can't see any problem other than watching how your light housings are coping with the extra heat ie. no warping or cracking.

Where you live: on a wet night you might pick up little specks of GOLD shining back at you with those low beams eh?? haha

Cheers, T

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226502-r34-low-beam/#findComment-3995778
Share on other sites
charlie22 Community Regular

charlie22

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Low beams are set lower than High beams, so I can't see any problem other than watching how your light housings are coping with the extra heat ie. no warping or cracking.

Where you live: on a wet night you might pick up little specks of GOLD shining back at you with those low beams eh?? haha

Cheers, T

hehe, yeah why else do you think i need such good low beams lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226502-r34-low-beam/#findComment-3995854
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...