Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: forged rb 2.7 litre engine

Age: 2 years

Condition: in very good running order

Price: $12000

To Fit: (What car) any skyline / project

Location: melb

Contact: 0418 170 234

Comments: im selling my rb 26 engine it has full rebuilt trust forged engine 2.7 litre making way for my new HKS 2.8 litre high deck , yes its time for this engine to go in , hoping to get this done by weds , the trust engine is out , has forged trust pistons , trust rods,trust crank , greddy oil pump , yes oil pump,trust cams , specs soon ,trust valves springs , port and polish, engine has made over 1200hp measured on a dyno pack , serious enqiures only , turbo not included , nor the ecu this is used in the hks 2.8 , any one have the HPI mag vol 29 , its the orange R34 thats the car RK reckless tune shop japan , and yes i have the car still for anyone to veiw in melb if you think you can build a engine for less good luck trying to beat the reliable japan built drag engine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227079-trust-27-rb-26-complete-engine/
Share on other sites

engine just removed from the car at oh performance today , there you will find most of the fastest gtr in melb , pics tommorow , fegot to mention that this car has run a 8.7 et at 167 mph

TRANSLATION!

Item: forged rb 2.7 litre engine...for the moment

Age: 2 years...or so i say

Condition: in very good running order...but thats before you get here.

Price: $12000 PAY $2000 UP FRONT MAN, NON REFUNDABLE

To Fit: (What car) any skyline / project

Location: melb Yeah

Contact: 0418 170 234 - Paid your bill yet?

Comments: ok guys i got this engine right you should totoally buy it its got all this brand name shit on here but please beware when you come to pickup the motor it might not have any of the stuff anymore cause like the stuff got damaged in the shipping container and im not gunna give you a discount for it and like totally i swear to god im not trying to rip you off. Yeah man nah i know its missing all the shit I said it had in the ad, but trsut me man you dont know what its supposed to come with just buy it anyway, just yeah.. oh and yeah half the shit is rusted and missing, but you'll still pay me full price right?

Yeah that's my experience dealing with this guy with a halfcut.. Advertied with full interior, all pics etc.. was missing everythign from the interior, even gauges etc.... Great aye.. Waste of a trip to melb.

Edit OH I RUN A SHOP BTW BUT IM TOO MUCH OF A TIGHTASS TO BECOME A SAU TRADER!! AND IVE BEEN BANNED SO MANY TIMES!!

Edited by benzau

BENZAU

i dont know what your soooking over the half cut that you asked me to get it came , it came you saw , but you changed your mind , what did you expect as a half cut ! but then again you drive a aussie car , that says it all ! im sure it was at the end over a roof linning only that you are sooking over everything else was there ,

I know that we arent supposed to chat on sale threads but if I were in the market for a 1200hp engine that is as your selling it there is only 2 ways you could buy it.

1. See the dyno run in person and watch it be removed from the car.

2. Inspect it in disassembled form and have the parts individually inspected by a suitably qualified NDT engineer.

Isnt $12k way too cheap for an engine like this?...

ok its a good price for this engine , the sump getting removed tommorow for inspection ,a report will be set out then , im guessing 12 k is the sale price , all you need to look at the HPI vol #29 you see the car , you can see the car in person at this workshop , inspect the engine there or know someone to see it in person ,cant be more fairer than that

BENZAU

i dont know what your soooking over the half cut that you asked me to get it came , it came you saw , but you changed your mind , what did you expect as a half cut ! but then again you drive a aussie car , that says it all ! im sure it was at the end over a roof linning only that you are sooking over everything else was there ,

Brembo's were missing, gauges were missing, seats were missing (and you offered a $200 refund for them..for R32 GT-R Seats), carpet was missing, door trims were missing, all the Nismo caps were missing out of the engine bay, wiring was missing, CF Gear knob and shift knob were missing, Nismo side repeaters were missing.... Need I say anymore? I changed my mind after blowing 1k on driving down there, ahuh, sure matey...Amazing you started to find bits when we started asking questions, but apart from that, a lot of other shit was missing and it wasnt worth my time or hassle to deal with getting ripped off by some dodgy auto importer mate.

And yeah, when you tow a drift car around, you tend to have some form of V8, or an Aristo if you swing that way.. Sorry buddy, no dice, not the first person you've tried to screw from what we've heard either....

Edit:

I know that we arent supposed to chat on sale threads but if I were in the market for a 1200hp engine that is as your selling it there is only 2 ways you could buy it.

1. See the dyno run in person and watch it be removed from the car.

2. Inspect it in disassembled form and have the parts individually inspected by a suitably qualified NDT engineer.

Isnt $12k way too cheap for an engine like this?...

It is, and like I said, I and my business partner forked out of a halfcut that was advertised as coming with an exhaust, CF interior bits, nismo bits and pieces and brembo's.. Saw pics of the fully assembled car in JP, and what was said in PM's was "everything you see here".. what we got offered was a car that had obviously had the eyes picked out of it, and when we saw the rear cradle it looked like it'd been sitting outside for years...Not good when you drive down from sydney to do a pickup.

Edited by benzau

your full of shit mate , you need to look at the pics i sent you , as you can see there would not be a exhaust , it was hard rear damage , as for the brembos and others , due to your trip takings months to finnally come to pick it up , it had to be stored at another place and yes i did remove all the high risk items that would of been stolen , any one with a half a brain would of done the same , so buddy cool it , go back home , no use choffing over some thing you could of had , its gone now

Sounds like you are an importer/trader of sorts 'jim'

Do not open another thread in the classifieds until such time as you become a registered trader and pay to advertise, or a ban will result.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...