Jump to content
SAU Community

Spark

BIG K

By BIG K,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BIG K Rookie

BIG K

Posted
Posted

I have a r32 with a rb25 conversion and have just brought a new set of super spark coil packs and new plugs after i changed these it was only fireing on 5 cylinders number 4 wasnt working. I checked compression on all 6 and they were all round the 125 mark which is good, checked the wireing harness to the coil packs and it was ok wireing was very crap but still getting power to them all. Tested the coil packs and they are all good, tested the plugs and tryed a different set that was all good too. Im running the microtech ltx12s ecu in it..

What could be my problem? Anyone know what to replace or to try next

cheers

kyle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227316-spark/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Standard investigative process, move items around, see if the problem follows.

What happens when you swap #4 coil pack with, say, #6? Which cylinder isn't working properly.

And what about swapping #4 spark plug with #6?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227316-spark/#findComment-4001697
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

as blind_elk has said, see if the problem to stays on cylinder 4 when you swap some coilpacks over. if it does, have a better look at the wiring and plug to that coil, there may be something you missed first time checking, and even if the electrical plug looks ok it could be broken down inside.

if that still checks out ok, look at the microtech, you said you have the LTX12S, would i be correct in saying this model has built in ignitors? maybe the ignitor for cylinder 4 is fried?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227316-spark/#findComment-4001741
Share on other sites
BIG K Rookie

BIG K

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ive tried swapping plugs and coild around and nothing changes. I have been told about that ecu and the igniters, a mechanic up here said that could possibly be the problem. If so and i need a new ecu what would be my best option as to what to get? Everyone says something different but what do other skyline owners think?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227316-spark/#findComment-4002103
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

pull the coil pack out, leave it plugged in, put a spark plug in it, earth the body of the spark plug out on the engine and crank it over, you should see it spark. if not, have a real good look at the wiring, use a multimeter and test continuity between the coil plug and the ecu pinout for any breakdown of the cable. if it does fire, check that the fuel injector for that cylinder is firing, no fuel could also cause this.

if the coil isn't firing and all the cabling check out it might work out cheaper to send the unit to microtech and get it repaired.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227316-spark/#findComment-4002431
Share on other sites
Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

If it was fine before, whats the chances the wiring to number 4 has become damaged. If it was heat affected and on its last legs fiddling with it may have finished it off. Good check list there to find out the problem though, text book style :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/227316-spark/#findComment-4005265
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...