Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nice job man

have you got an intake routing air in from underneath?

edit: actually i see you're using the stock intercooler, which means you dont have a free hole for the intake.

do you think enough air is getting to the pod through that snorkel?

my theory is :P that the snorkel's mouth is hidden from direct airflow by the bonnet. so the only way to get air through it is if it's sucked in. that wont happen unless the box is well sealed.

Heres my go at it on a R33 ! Cant be much different for a R34 I should think !

post-6582-1218027906_thumb.jpgpost-6582-1218027939_thumb.jpg[attachment=174981:004.jpg

Heres my go at it !

thats the exact kit i was on about....whatd you make it out of and yes, does it have an additional inlet?

Guys air is also pulled into it from behind the front head light. Still working on the side panel that isolates the pod from the engine heat. Reworking the panel as a twin walled partishon with fiberglass in between about 1cm apart. Not happy with pods though cause if any oil gets on your afm the computer reads it as rich and leans it down. Already lost one exhaust scroll that way on a mates car. Went so lean it began to crystalise the cast iron and cracked the hell out of it. Im working on a tripple stock panel filter box arrangement that fits inside the whole thing.

Yes at the moment stock intercoooler but I have a large front mount that plumps back into the original pipe work. A panel sits on top of the intercooler and dirrects air up into the snorkel

  • 4 months later...

that looks great PLYNX

was thinking somtihng like that for my stagea using the snorkle, just to keep that stock look.

didnt have the brain power and patients for it tho, just did the standard box in the corner with air feed from below.

but for air feed, that snorkel was put there by nissan for a reason. so of course it must get air flow.

has anyone had trouble when washing the car. does the high pressure wash go up the air feed into the filter

Its pretty involved and needs a bit of reveres thinking. To make the bit that goes into the snorkel i got a piece of pvc plumbing tubing that fits into the snorkle. Cut two small pieces of the pvc and bolted them to a block of wood. Waxed it and fiberglassed around it. That gives you the oval that fit into the snorkel. Then you take the pvc tube and bolt it to the outside at each end of the oval and fiberglass the underside of the tube and that gives you the revere profile. So now youve got an oval with what looks like two half circles at either end. Then you take a sheet of cardboard and measure out the top shape, transfer it to a sheet of polypropylene( the same stuff that Maccas food trays are made out of ) fiberglass that with a thin sheet so its still flexable. Positon the oval on the lid on the car in the correct height and positon and lightly fiberglass it together. Once thats done build the ramp that goes towards the gard, cut out the underside of the lid so it will feed air from the snorked and the proceed to build up the fibergass to the shape of where the gard and radiator support is.

Thats the simplified version of how its done

Easy ! Well not really ! Just time consuming !

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...