Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

My project car has been on hold for too long and it's time to move on with my life. I am selling the below parts. This was a complete car (s13 silvia Ks), so feel free to ask about ANY parts you are after that I have not listed below. I will be selling the shell at the end. It was registered in Victoria recently until it was defected and taken off the road. Paint is sun faded (looks like a backyard job with no clear) I was going to respray it.

Price of shell will depend what is left on the car.

RB25DET and gearbox including computer and loom, done aprox 80,000km $3000 for the package or will seperate (includes brand new 260kw clutch)

R33 cross member $200 (less if purchased with engine)

Custom tail shaft correct length for S13 with RB25 with R33 X Member $160

rbs13tailshaft01790.jpg

URAS Type 4 body kit, fitted once but never sprayed. $1100

URAS wide s13 (silvia) front guards $380 for the pair

standard s13 silvia guards (red) $240 for the pair

Panasport G7 17" rims (17x9 and 17x10) suit wide body 5 stud s13, average condition. $400

g7_front463.jpg

Stock S15 rims, not much rubber $160

Q45 throttle body, with plug (plug not pictured) $190

q45tb01537.jpg

SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator with guage $90

sard01149.jpg

Bosch 040 Fuel pump $160

R33 GTST Fuel Pump $60

S13 CA18DET Fuel Pump $30

cheap knock off greddy plenum for RB25DET *note plenum only is for sale, all attachments will be removed before sold* $120

greddyplen01768.jpg

greddyplen02773.jpg

standard rb25det plenum modified for front facing inlet $120

fmplenum01818.jpg

auto meter lunar series oil pressure guage (electronic with sender) $100

auto meter lunar series boost guage $50

Pioneer DEH-P5650MP Headunit with remote and harness $80

pioneerdeh01771.jpg

pioneerdeh02760.jpg

R33 Front Calipers and Rotors $380

5 stud conversion: s15 front hubs, R32 LCA (with right ball joint) s14 rear hubs will throw in s14 rear discs (same diameter as s13 discs but 5 stud) $800 (will seperate front and back but not left and right)

Tein Super Street s13 Coilovers front re-drilled for s15 hubs full set, VERY few k's travelled. $1100

r32 undertray (will suit S13s with RB Cross members with a couple of holes drilled) $70

450x300x75 3" bar and plate intercooler brand new never used $120

inter45001941.jpg

600x300x75 3" bar and plate intercooler used $80

inter60001360.jpg

Intercooler piping kit R33 used, $30

piping01515.jpg

S13 Silvia projector headlights, good condition $300

headlights256.jpg

S13 grey vinyl door trims cut but not fitted $30

R33 Radiator $100

radiator01863.jpg

Single Thermo fan from ford something? $30

fan01501.jpg

Chrome oil catch can $10 - price drop, damaged!

catchcan01497.jpg

Strut bars (front modified to fit over stock RB25 plenum in s13) $80 for the pair or $45 each.

Braided clutch line from sponsor $70

s13 aftermarket grill black $100

grill01830.jpg

ALL PRICES NEGOTIOBLE.

MORE PICS WILL COME UP, BUT I CAN PROVIDE ON REQUEST

Pick up can be arranged from Bentleigh or Ballarat (all parts currently in Ballarat)

Postage can be arranged at buyers expense.

Edited by Justice
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228150-part-out-rb25det-s13/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...