Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, basically as the title says my rear coilover bottom mounts and locking rings are hitting the standard camber arms and have ground them down, therefore making them defective so they wont pass certification. basically i want to know if aftermarket adjustable rear camber arms have a bigger 'hole' in the middle so they will clear the coilovers. or does anyone else have any other suggestions?

also I'm pretty sure ive been sent GTST front suspension as the bottom lower mounts are fully wound up and they arent very low (335mm centre of wheel to guard) im presuming the GTR struts are shorter therefore will go lower, is this correct?

cheers

post-52314-1216109285_thumb.jpg

post-52314-1216109313_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228247-gts4-coilovers-hitting-camber-arms/
Share on other sites

Raise it up, it's too low, it should be 350 mm front and 345 mm rear. It will handle much better, ride more comfortably and won't wear out the tyres so fast. And it won't foul the arms.

Changing arms is a defect anyway, so doing that won't fix your legality problem

Cheers

Gary

Raise it up, it's too low, it should be 350 mm front and 345 mm rear. It will handle much better, ride more comfortably and won't wear out the tyres so fast. And it won't foul the arms.

Changing arms is a defect anyway, so doing that won't fix your legality problem

Cheers

Gary

nah, i like having my car nice and low (and its not low enough at the the moment imo) so just wonder if the gtr front struts are short than gts/gtst. its got gtr rear suspension atm and its nearly wound up as high as it can go and its sitting at about 310mm (centre of wheel to top of guard)

over here in new zealand we can change anything we like (within reason of course) as long as its of good quality and doesnt make the car dangerous and can get it certified (wee plate that gets riveted to the body that says all the modifications are road worthy and dont make the car dangerous) so just wondering if the aftermarket rear camber arms do have the bigger centre 'holes' so they won't foul on teh arms.

cheers

KTS, cusco, tein etc all make camber arms for r32s

anyone have a pic of their r32 at the height of 350 mm front and 345 mm rear as Sydneykid has recommended ??

i have a feeling it may be too high and look 4wd lol

Edited by dori32

yea id say that 350mm/345mm will look pretty close to standard height (unsure on wht the standard height is in mm but guessing its pretty close to that)

would i need gtst or gtr camber arms as its a gts4? or are they all the same? cheers

350/345 will look lover than stock.

oh ok, still no way that im going to have it sitting that high. i like having my cars nice and low. guess its down 2 personal preference

yea id say that 350mm/345mm will look pretty close to standard height (unsure on wht the standard height is in mm but guessing its pretty close to that)

would i need gtst or gtr camber arms as its a gts4? or are they all the same? cheers

Standard (new car) height is 390/380.

Upper control arms are the same on GTR, GTST and GTS4.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...