Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

What effect do larger diameter sway bars have on ride comfort?

Now I know that we are all told that they are not supposed to have any effect in the perfect road where it is flat and smooth, and where the bumps occur on each side at the same time, but as you may be aware, most city roads are quite honestly all over the place. You'll get huge bumps and dips that occur only on one side at any point in time.

A good quote "if the wheels try to move independently, as with a single-wheel bump, or in opposite directions when the car rolls then the anti-roll bar resists this tendency. Roll is reduced as intended but comfort suffers as the effective spring rate of each wheel is increased in the individual single-wheel bumps, although the combined spring rate of the two wheels is unchanged over joint disturbances"

I also feel that the harder poly links may stiffen up things.

I am currently using Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm rear sway bars + castor and camber bushes. Springs are reset factory ones, stock shocks. Compared to another R34 GTT with the same springs and shocks but without swaybars/castor/camber bushes, mine seems a little bumpier and uncontrolled. Of course the other car has slightly more roll, but it is much much more like factory plush. (i have gained the granny syndrome and want a nicer riding car now hahaha)

So with these sway bars, what is the effective spring rates?

Thanks

It's very hard to calculate the rate of those swaybars because of all the bends and funny angles. Someone would probably have to work it out experimentally, and then measure the motion ratio to work out the effective wheel rate (spring rate at the wheel).

Anyway, swaybars do add to the wheel rate in single wheel bump (nothing in 2 wheel bump though), but because they work by pushing down on the outside wheel and lifting up on the inside wheel, they resist roll on both wheels. This means that a swaybar can provide the same roll stiffness as springs, but with a lower wheel rate, and hence you feel less discomfort. Although it's better than springs, it still does provide more discomfort than stock.

I would also be looking at your reset springs with stock shocks. You've lessened the travel of the shock, but the spring rate and shock valving is the same. This could mean you're riding the bumpstops causing the discomfort. Wrap a cable tie around your shock shaft and go for a drive, then you can see if you're using up all the travel and riding the bump stops.

Cheers for that salad

Pretty certain it is not bottoming out as I have also trimmed quite a fair bit off the bump stops but will give that a shot.

It's not even really the big hits, but also the small undulations and so forth that feel uncontrolled. Maybe with the higher effective spring rates, the stock shocks just cant control and smooth the rapid movements.

You can't directly compare spring rates and swaybar rates, the chassis dynamics are very different. Salad covered the 2 wheel versus 1 wheel scenario, but there are other considerations. The swaybar tries to duplicate what is happening to the wheel in recoil (from the bump) with the wheel that isn't. Plus the bar acts directly through the chassis mountings in the reverse direction. These actions and reactions cancel each other out to some extent. Compared to the single spring impact with has a simple pass on effect on that one wheel only.

The term "reset springs" always worries me, it's a complex process and very hit and miss regardless of the experience and quality of the resetter.

Polyurethane bushes add slightly to the "vibration" item in NVH, particularly link bushes. Since you have most likely only changed the D bushes, the effect is miniscule as the bar rotates freely, hence passing on very little of the impact directly to the chassis.

My guess would be that the standard shocks simply don't have the damping capacity to control the increased anti roll, let alone the reset springs. They didn't have it when they were new, so they sure as hell don't have it now.

A Skyline is a sports car, it suspensions system was designed with that in mind. They aren't a limosine and never will be, no matter what you do to their suspension the basic design criteria will always win out.

Cheers

Gary

Most people don't notice any difference in ride comfort with such small increases in swaybar sizes on a relatively heavy car. It's not until we start using 30 mm bars on light weight cars that come standard with 14 mm bars that we get any ride discussion.

I should mention tyres and to a lesser extent tyre pressure, their effect on ride comfort is often over looked. So it may pay to swap tyres with the car you are comparing.

Cheers

Gary

I am currently running around with std shocks and springs in my car with upgraded swaybars and the ride is pretty sporty. Its not harsh, but you wouldnt think the car has std shocks and springs.

Housemate drove the car and didnt realise i had removed the shocks as he thought it still rode firmly and handled well.

I am currently running around with std shocks and springs in my car with upgraded swaybars and the ride is pretty sporty. Its not harsh, but you wouldnt think the car has std shocks and springs.

Housemate drove the car and didnt realise i had removed the shocks as he thought it still rode firmly and handled well.

Sounds good. care to elaborate Roy? how did is the car different on rough roads?

So there is a noticeable difference, still decent ride but not quite the "no effect" feeling that most people seem to reiterate

  • 4 weeks later...

Okay removed the Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm rear sway bar.

Obviously some more body roll, and less direct steering feedback.

However oddly, there is DRAMATICALLY much more comfort. So when someone says sway bars have next to no affect on comfort, I'd tend to disagree now. On rough roads, there is a significant improvement, and on the smoother ones, its better also.

Strangely even on speed humps when the 2 wheels land together, it seems to be a softer hit than with the bars on.

Learn something new everyday aye.

Okay removed the Whiteline 24mm front and 20mm rear sway bar.

Obviously some more body roll, and less direct steering feedback.

However oddly, there is DRAMATICALLY much more comfort. So when someone says sway bars have next to no affect on comfort, I'd tend to disagree now. On rough roads, there is a significant improvement, and on the smoother ones, its better also.

Strangely even on speed humps when the 2 wheels land together, it seems to be a softer hit than with the bars on.

Learn something new everyday aye.

Hey Danny i'll take those sway bars off you if you don't want?? LOL :D

However oddly, there is DRAMATICALLY much more comfort. So when someone says sway bars have next to no affect on comfort, I'd tend to disagree now. On rough roads, there is a significant improvement, and on the smoother ones, its better also.

As SK stated, this might be evidence that your shocks are not up to the job, or more generally that the sway bars are intended for use with uprated suspension. I didnt notice any difference when i installed mine, but then again the Tein suspension i have is rock hard (spring rate and damping) already...

Strangely even on speed humps when the 2 wheels land together, it seems to be a softer hit than with the bars on.

That doesnt make much sense. Were the bushes properly greased? If the bar binds in the bushes it stops it working properly.

Good point, on stock suspension maybe its more noticeable. As an overall package with some shocks+springs the effect may be less.

Bushes were fine, I wouldnt expect a lack of grease to cause resistance in the movement of the bar against the bush though, itll just be noisier.

PS: it is all by the 'seat of pants' feel which is quite different for everyone. Some people will think there is no difference

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...