Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I've booked Wakefield out for a private track day. Its being set up as a "no frills" tday. There will be no official timing (stop watches and personal lap timers are permitted) and we aren't bringing any gun drivers to provide driver training.

While we are charging a bit more, we are also limiting the field to a maximum of 25 drivers. We will run two sessions of 12-13 vehicles each, which means you'll be looking at two runs an hour. As the field thins during the day, this will change.

The initial plan is to run 2 solo-occupant "timed" sessions (not official timing, but stopwatch / lap timers) and 2 passenger permitted sessions an hour (so one type for each group), to ensure fairness and to comply with our insurance requirements.

The last time I ran one of these things became a little freer in the afternoon. After lunch time, with the inevitable breakdowns or people getting tired, we ran an open pit. By mid afternoon, we only had 4 cars on the track with the open pit so people just kept lapping until they wanted to pit in.

We're aiming this track day at people who've got the basics down, and want some solid track time to practice and experiment. Even if no-one breaks down and everyone runs every session they're entitled to, with two sessions an hour you're still looking at double the track time of most days.

I'm no pro driver, but I'm happy to go for a ride in anyone's car and point out where I think the line is, and give the (dubious) benefit of my experience.

Since its a small group, it'll give you a chance to meet everyone and you know that everyone there at least knows someone else. The last one was great, since everyone knew everyone else. Everyone checked their mirrors to let faster traffic through, and you didn't get giant egos trying to intimidate other drivers. Our aim is to retain that spirit, to avoid some of the more negative vibes you can get from regular Wakefield open days or heavily booked track days.

We've had questions about whether people can drift, too. The answer is yes, but for insurance purposes we must have a dedicated drift session with no passengers. When we fill the ranks I'll email everyone and see what people are interested in, and work it out from there. As no-one is likely to drift all day (the tyre cost would be prohibitive) then we'll alternate the drift-interested group between one grip and one drift instead in the morning, and play it by ear when the field shrinks.

Details:

Location: Wakefield Park

Date: August 18, 2008

Cost: $200 per driver

Contact Details: 0430 046 338 or [email protected] (tell Carmen who you are and how you know me) or PM me

Payment Details:

Direct Deposit:

Savings account

BSB: 012 129

ACC: 592 355 971

ANZ

payment description; Please write your real name and forum username (with forum) as your description

or you can use Paypal to [email protected]

Additional Costs:

You will need a AASA License (as they now own Wakefield) or a CAMS L2S or above. We don't organise licenses so if you don't have either, you can pick up an AASA on the day for $50.

As for positions. its first in, first served. If we do get enough interest, we'll run a reserve list.

Edited by scathing
  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...