Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The general idea with Illawarra and Alexander Drive is to avoid all together! Works for me. I just go around the long way, follow it to the end and get back onto Alexander Drive. Screw waiting at the lights, its a bit like going on a mini cruise by yourself :rofl:

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The general idea with Illawarra and Alexander Drive is to avoid all together! Works for me. I just go around the long way, follow it to the end and get back onto Alexander Drive. Screw waiting at the lights, its a bit like going on a mini cruise by yourself :worship:

Maybe I'm just too tired, but..

What to the end where? Lol both ends intersect with Alexander.

Edit: And I think lights at that bit are long overdue, it was terrible before that.

Edited by s2k12

+1 for Nicholson Rd/Yale RAB and Leach/Tonkin intersection.

Also Ranford Rd near IGA (Canning Vale) so many ppl just run the intersection rather than giving way to people in the RAB.

My personal fav though is the dual lane RAB intersection Shenton Ave and Marmion. It works well in theory, but too many people just can't cope with dual lane RABs, so many accidents there!

Hutton St at the freeway entries/exits. Gets so busy sometimes, usually traffic gets banked up in one lane but not the other so people try turning across the road not being able to see if there is another car coming along in the other lane at a speed too fast for the conditions. Where do people get the idea that a green light means you are completely safe at an intersection and don't need to adjust your speed if there is shitloads of traffic banked up or even bother to check that an idiot isn't crossing when he shouldn't be?

Pretty sure the bike thing works on power too.. a mate had a 650cc dominator (road/trail) which is able to be used on a small bike license as it only had like 33kW.

Also, don't brake-check cops.. they'll do you for dangerous driving (another mate of mine got done for it).

I'm a good boy :down:

Not really an intersection, but there's a rather large pot hole on alexander drive which I hit today because the puddles were hiding it. Yay for almost ripping the tyre off.

Not a single intersection but any round abouts. . (the double lane ones)

Is it just me or does everyone on the outside lane ALWAYS cut into the inside lane and make you get really close to the roundabout?

I cant remember how many times this has happened to me and ive been forced up the curb on the inside of the roundabout. . happens just about every week. .

And like stinky rooster said, the roundabout on armadale rd. . Happens mostly there and the one further up in forrestdale (still on armadale rd)

STAY IN YOUR LANE!!!

Not a single intersection but any round abouts. . (the double lane ones)

Is it just me or does everyone on the outside lane ALWAYS cut into the inside lane and make you get really close to the roundabout?

I cant remember how many times this has happened to me and ive been forced up the curb on the inside of the roundabout. . happens just about every week. .

And like stinky rooster said, the roundabout on armadale rd. . Happens mostly there and the one further up in forrestdale (still on armadale rd)

STAY IN YOUR LANE!!!

I'll admit that I do this, but only if there isnt anyone in sight. Seriously, who is stupid enough to cut someone off? Thats just stupidity.

Also, its a 7 demerit point fine apparently, thats the other reason I only do it when no one is around ;)

  • 5 weeks later...

Gnangara rd and Beechboro rd at peak hr, AVOID LIKE THE PLAGUE!

I've had to hit the skids for a couple of noodles that turned infront of me while heading west on gnangara. And trying to get onto gnangara from beechboro is nearly impossible

I dont know about dangerous but my picks do require a little more vigilance.

Freeway overpass at Hutton st..clowns changing lanes in the turn, then is standard nonsense down to W.A.'s old shop

Walcott and Beaufort. Every yuppie for themselves

Mirrabooka and Reid. I don't know why but there is always evidence of carnage

Right turn exit off Kwinana to Canning...make up you minds ppl, are you going into the Raffles or not?

Leach from Northlake to the Freeway anytime after 3pm on a Friday...Indy 500 without the skillz.

And any place I ride my Triumph

Mirrabooka and Reid. I don't know why but there is always evidence of carnage

I still fail to see how that's dangerous, all the accidents there are because people skip the lights. Fault of the people, not the intersection.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...