Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Work XD9 rims

Age: near new

Condition: Excellent

Price: $1650 with 2 near new tyres and 2 worn tyres (though still legal). $1500 without tyres. $1400 with the small scuff mark on front right wheel from the second morning i drove the car :P No wheel damage, just chipped the paint off and intending to get the paint fixed, even though because of the wheel colour its hard to see the chipped paint

To Fit: for my R32 GTSt, but will fit R32 GTR, R33 GTSt, etc etc

Location: Southbank Victoria

Contact: thread or PM

Comments:

Purchased these wheels because they were +30 offset rather then my old +35s and was hoping that they would clear the brakes i had laying in wait. Though, massively pissed off that even these wheels do not fit the brakes :D

So need to move this gear so i can afford to fix bodywork on car and either flare guards or go GTR guards so i can run +22 or +15 offset wheels to clear brakes i will buy further down the track as it appears as though the wheel offset for an R32 GTSt meansi cant run the Brembos, Greddy etc etc brakes that i have tried ;)

Item: Greddy 6 pot brake setup

Age: New in packaging. One was unwrapped for trial fitting

Condition: New

Price: $3100

To Fit: S13/S14/S15/Z32, R32 GTSt/GTR. R33 GTS25T/GTR etc

Location: Southbank Victoria

Contact: thread or PM

Comments:

The kit is an S13/14 setup, so will fit both 4 stud and 5 stud cars. Kit is all brand new with lines, pads, rotors and of course calipers. Rotors are 330x30mm. I grabbed the S13/14 kit as i was hoping that the rotor would be more suitable to an R32 GTSt with regards to wheel clearances as Silvias run higer offsets then R32s (typically) . The only difference between this kit and the R32/R33 kits is the hats are drilled both 4 stud and 5 stud. Would make a good upgrade to even GTRs.

If you are going to use these brakes on your GTSt or Silvia then be warned. You need to be running a wheel with an offset of around +25 or less. Wheel designs vary and so will the offset required. My problem is i want to run a wide a wheel as possible for tyre and grip reasons, which means i cant go to a +24 offset like i used to with my old 17 x 7 AVS front rims.

Will consider trades on forged R32 GTR wheels that are 17x9.5 with offset in the range of +15 to +22

post-462-1216871679_thumb.jpg

Wheels look to be sold with a guy getting money together and another in the wings.

Offer on the brakes was a little low, but open to reasonable offers. Nengun sell these for $2800 + delivery so ... make an offer.

I am off OS on the 11th and wont be back for a while, so will accept $2400 for the front Greddy brakes if the sale can be completed before Tuesday 5th August.

Will also accept $1200 for the wheels if payment made by Tuesday 5th August

My experience of shipping things to Perth is not goo (carton of magazines) I am guessing the wheels would cost about $200-250 as the total weight is about 42kg for all 4 wheels. ;)

Will take some pretty colour pics of the brakes tonight. Considering i am willign to let them go for $500 less then you pay for Nengun, mroe like $800 when you factor in Nengun delivery...i thought they would sell quickly (lol...hoping they would :teehee: )

Following are generic pics of the kit on the Greddy website

bocaraton_japan-img350x250-1192187677re_6pot01.jpg

bocaraton_japan-img350x250-1192187682re_6pot04.jpg

The kit is brand new still in all original boxes etc

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...