A few R32 questions

[mtopxsecret6]

I just want to ask a few questions..

1. What horsepower will a r32 driveline handle? I have a brass button clutch, so the clutch has been looked after already.. Im thinking around 400hp at wheels is what my car will have when im finished...

2. With this amount of hp, what sort of management system should i run? I was thinking standard comp.. aftermarket comp.. what would be the best for the job?

3. Where is the hicas fuse? If there is a fuse? Or, how do i kill the hicas, with out the lock kit? eg, for quick squirts on the track.

Thanks guys.. hope the questions dont seem silly.. and that i have this post in the right thread!

[Roy]

1. What horsepower will a r32 driveline handle?

Pretty hard questions to be answering as there are so many variables. Those mainly being how well driven/mantained has the driveline been, and also how hard/easy your driving style is on it.

300rwkws is a lot of power and i dont see a high km RB20 gearbox living at that power especially if you are going to do track work. So if, some will say when it breaks, you may need an RB25 or other box.

2. If you are looking at 300rwkw id personally be looking for n aftermarket computer, most likely Autronic or similar. They have features that will help engines live at this hp as well as being able to give accurate enough control over fuel & ignitoin in the 1st place.

Features like boost control, limp home function, cuts for when boost and water temps etc go past set point etc etc. All nice features that help an engine live.

3. On a 32 the HICAS is hydraulic (33s electronic) and i wouldnt recommend disconnecting the Hicas computer/pulling fuseses etc. This would result in a rear steering rack that has some free play in it when cornering which cant be a safe thing or a nice thing when punting the car quickly.

There are numerous local kits and Jap kits that range from an ECU by-pass and steering rack shims (Tomei) to a solid chrome moly bar which replaces the factory rear rack.

As for only disconnecting the HICAS for track work, i have had mine disconnected for some time and cant honeslty say i dont notice any difference on the street, but sure as hell notice extra stability on corner exists at the track. So i woudlnt worry about having to reconnect it for the street.

Does this help or confuse you? Sorry:D

[mtopxsecret6]

ZYeah man.. cool, thanks.. is very helpfull. Where would i get an autronic computer? And who in brisbane could tune it etc? Also, the hicas part im not so sure on.. what did you do to stop the hicas from working? thanks..

[adam 32]

with the 32s you can remap the std ECU, which on a budget would be your best option. having said that not many people successfully make 300rwkw on a budget so it may be best to look at an autronic

the HICAS system control can be found underneath the parcel shelf, just disconnect the SMALLER plug. i d/ced mine cos it would continually bring the light on and kill the power steering. i havent noticed any play through corners and for a RWD car pulls through the corners fairly quickly

[mtopxsecret6]

Yeah, money's not a problem.. im just doing a bit of research now for when it comes time to do the job.. Is autronic better than say, apexi pfc, ems motec etc etc.

[BOOSTMEISTER]

I wouldn't buy an Autronic personally, me and a mate did some serious homework for his rb20 S13 and without a doubt MOTEC is the best in fact it is probably the best management in the world.

I suppose my comment isn't really fair about the Autronic...I just think that if you are going to push for 400rwhp then it will not be the best choice. My suggestion is to contact Cramer Dyno & Performance in Toowoomba (It is well worth the drive) and chat to Tim he is great with MOTEC, MICROTECH, UNICHIP and most other management options so have a talk to him (get him to do the work too if possible) email me for more info etc [email protected]

[awill]

Hi just a Q,

To push about 225rwkw what management would you recomend just a power fc etc or something like a microtech system, Id rather the cheaper option as im on a budget, will the remapped stocko computer be able to put that sort of power out safely??

Cheers

[BOOSTMEISTER]

What eng...sr / rb?

Microtech is cheap and nasty/coarse but will do the job, a remap is the way to go on a budget or go to the local wrecker and find an aftermarket ecu. I got a Blitz Access ecu for $100 from the wrecker

[awill]

Sorry RB20 gettin rid of the sil soon chasing a gts-t type m and want to pull about 225rwkw maybe more depending on funds.

Hmm maybe scouring the wreckers isnt a bad move then as long as you know how to set it up, did u have ne probs get all the wiring etc??

I know where there is a couple of guys in wa that do remapping mite see about prices.

[BOOSTMEISTER]

Install is easy....unplug stock ecu, plug in jap ecu, start car and go hard Not sure if they are all like this but I never had a problem....also got rid of speed cut and lifted rev limit by 500rpm there was no actual tuning involved and when I coupled it with a big pump and apexi s-afc I took power up to just under 220rwkw (remember that 220kw is the absolute max for stock injectors)

[Roy]

RB20 owners should all but forget about Power Fcs, they are a real find if you come across one, an even better find if they work properly (mine didnt)

Motec & Autronic are fairly equitable ECUs if they have the same software upgrades, only thing is Autronic works out a bit cheaper. My thoughts are your comparing a Bentley to a Rolls Royce, both are good choices with auto tune functions etc etc.

Other ECUs have their + & - but if the budget stretches to a Motec/Autronic then you cant go wrong with either.

As for the HICAS, i have replaced the rear steering rack with a chrome moly rack to which the tie rods screw into. The lines/pump/old rack were then removed/bypassed saving a few kgs, and still leaving the steering check light on the dash functioning. (A good thing)