Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

love your surveys dont ya? lol

yes, yes i would buy one.

I do love my surveys!!!

Its market research and you guys are the market!!lol

I think you can actually get paid for doing survey's, I better watch it you boys might start hitting me for some C-ASH!!

Thanks for your help

Iceduck has a yellow GTT but I haven't seen him on here for a couple of years ....

There was a yellow R34GTR on Ebay that the guy couldn't sell for around 12 months. Saw it go as low as $45k but not sure if it actually sold for that amount though. He had it on Ebay more than 6 times

Yellow is not fail.........just cos you dont like it DSTROY doesnt mean its not good.

I have a yellow R34 and i think its one of the best colours imo as all lines are mostly black or white which is why yellow is good because its differant and you dont see them that often.

i like the bayside blue the best in r34s followed by the yellow.

it is a bit in your face, i can see how some people wouldnt like it but when it comes to cars it aint how many people don't like it. its how many like it enough to lay down the cash n buy 1

but i won't be buying 1 im a 32 boy :(

Edited by Inline 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...