Jump to content
SAU Community

Car cutting out!!! when driving.

dabigbolf

By dabigbolf,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

once i sort out power steering i will reconnect that stupid BOV.

I thought seeing as the rb30's had no bov that i would be alright.

they dont seem to cut out.

It normally happens after the car is warm. And doesn't always happen when i build up some boost. Further investigation be will be done, once timing is set right, and i have some temperature readings, and thermos hooked up.

OVL-747 Enthusiast

OVL-747

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by dabigbolf

I thought seeing as the rb30's had no bov that i would be alright.

they dont seem to cut out.

. [/b]

mine cuts out

im not too worried coz less than 3 weeks now and my autronic goes in so i will have no bloody afm to muck me around

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i am getting it tuned within the next couple of weeks i have decied.

so i am contemplating just pikcing up a second hand safc as the amount of black shit covering the car is definatley caused by it running to rich.....

I put spacers between the crank anlge sensor (as i dont have a cover on.... bonnet reasons), and it seems to have helped, this and the fittment of constant thermo fans also.

I am flushing the radiator and the engine oil out now aswell, so if all goes to plan hopefully no probs from here on in.

Also have found that there has been some sprayed coolant at the back of the motor, whether this is the heater hoses or the head i dont know..... too hard to tell. but ehater hoses are all clamped really tight...

i let you know my dyno result also... hoping for anything above 160 rwkw....

Bozz Proficient

Bozz

Posted
Posted

Bit of advice for you:

Get it running right first with what you have. By putting an aftermarket ECU or piggyback controller, you are merely masking up any original problems you have.

The reason its stalling and running rich is there is no BOV. Put the factory recirculating one or any non-rice recirculating one (if you plan on running more than 12-14psi) and you'll see your car will stop spewing out unburnt petrol onto your bumper. Its not a blown HG or anything else serious. At worst there are a few vacuum hoses that may be leaky.

Using the stock turbo, putting it to 11-13 PSI will result in 160rwkw with your setup. It will reduce the life of the turbo though, its unknown how much by though, may be a week, may be 5 years. Expect 140+rwkw as it is.

dabigbolf Proficient

dabigbolf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i am going to see the fabrication magician tommorow. will have a chat to him about wacking it back on...

the continuos fluttering through the cooler piping, and from the turbine wheel chopping up the air is getting pretty annoying... Especially when your not actually getting pulled back in your seat.

catcha.

p.s

theres a guy in ringwood that we might be able to check the speedo singals off. Picking up a power steering line fitting next weekend hopefully.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...