Jump to content
SAU Community

B&m Line Lockers

hall sales

By hall sales,
in Group Buys

 Share

Recommended Posts

hall sales Enthusiast

hall sales

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Id be interested to know a ballpark price for the line locker and instructions. Ive looked at one of these, but found that i needed two units because something about the brake lines crossing over as a safety feature. I didnt explain that very well, but maybe you'll know what i mean.

Shaun.

unsure of exactly what you mean. there is no point in the line where the brake line for the rear of the car is single?

if not i may be able to look into a way of bringing the two lines into one close to the master cylinder and then split off again. its that or 2 lockers. haha

^^^^^^+ 1 for above.

Im assuming these aren't legal for a road car? Are there any safety concerns? Im pretty interested though.

Shaun

correct. offroad use only. like most products that mess with brake system - bias adjusters, etc. no safety concerns though. unless you leave it on whilst driving - having no back brakes and thus much worse braking ability.

Keen - details please

what else would you like to know?

Yeah, im keen for those prices.

I'd like some instructions on how to do it though.

Shaun.

i will supply instructions with the kit. but it is fairly straight forward, you can even get your local brake place to install them.

i now have them in stock ready to go

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

Yeah, i find it difficult to explain, but i just know that i had a look at a line lock kit previously, and found that i needed two kits in order to make it work. Im not saying that im 100% correct, but i wouldnt mind confirmation that you definately only need one and where the kit is best installed. Also, do the hard lines have to be flared? As soon as i know these things, ill transfer the money!

Can anyone shed some light?

Thanks,

Shaun.

hall sales Enthusiast

hall sales

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Do you have any pics of the kit?

Interested in knowing what / how to fit it all up as well.

Cheers champ.

no pics currently but will have another camera on Monday.

basic rundown of installation is this.

1. using pipe cuter - cut rear brake line appropriate to the line locker.

2. put brass fittings on each end of brake line

3. using a double flare tool - flare both ends of the brake line

4. screw brass adaptors into line locker

5. screw the brake lines into the brass adaptors.

6. tighten up all fittings and tek-screw or similar solenoid to body.

7. bleed brakes and check for any leaks, etc once pedal feel is 'normal'

8. run 1 wire to earth and run the other one to a switch and then to +12v

Yeah, i find it difficult to explain, but i just know that i had a look at a line lock kit previously, and found that i needed two kits in order to make it work. Im not saying that im 100% correct, but i wouldn't mind confirmation that you definately only need one and where the kit is best installed. Also, do the hard lines have to be flared? As soon as i know these things, ill transfer the money!

Can anyone shed some light?

Thanks,

Shaun.

yes, the two brake lines have to be flared. pm sent RE: 2 kits or a crossover system.

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just got under my car and there is only one line going from the brake booster to the rear. It then splits to each rear wheel via a distribution block, so i suppose you'd just install it in the single line before the distribution block. Its a very small diameter line though, so it would be pretty difficult to flare, but certainly possible. Ill include a pic of the distribution block. Note the single line going into the block, then the two other lines going to each rear wheel.

Shaun.

post-11456-1219562531_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shaun
hall sales Enthusiast

hall sales

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I just got under my car and there is only one line going from the brake booster to the rear. It then splits to each rear wheel via a distribution block, so i suppose you'd just install it in the single line before the distribution block. Its a very small diameter line though, so it would be pretty difficult to flare, but certainly possible. Ill include a pic of the distribution block. Note the single line going into the block, then the two other lines going to each rear wheel.

Shaun.

i should of asked what model car you had and could of answed it. (a 32 i take it) lol

it will plumb in fine.

pm sent.

  • 1 month later...
Buckna Community Regular

Buckna

Posted
Posted

i've got one of these sitting in my draw, plus a switch and all wiring, instructions etc. as new, never used. in brisbane if anyone wants one will sell for $80 as it's just sitting there.

0427282562 if you want it!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • Bennym35
      New guy

      By Bennym35 · Posted

      The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...