Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righteo

Stagea is running super awesome like, yep thats right :D

low down on power 'cause she still wont hold boost

last thing it could be is the "Hybrid" dual stage ebc I got from Flynn performance ebay a few years ago

its been fine for the stock turbo at 12psi or under it was stable and fine, but for the highflow and 1bar it drops to 12

adjusting the hks actuator the car reaches 200kw on the dyno no worries, but she wont hold the boost

so, what boost controller? tuner - shaun at boostwerks, says the Profec B specII is the way to go

Im going to buy as cheap as possible (ie under $300), so while I can get one eventually (330new) Im looking for any boost controller that is guaranteed to hold 1 bar stable thru the rev range

what can you suggest?

ta, I know there are loads of threads, yes I read, but what is your suggestion, on a budget, for the following details:

cheers

190kw.jpg

Car:

Dayz special edition series 1 Stagea RS V Four

98000kms, automatic, RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd

1997 model silky snow pearl, lives in southern Adelaide

Engine:

New Oxygen sensor

New 400amp battery

New fuel filter, new oil filter, fresh Castrol Edge 10/40w engine oil

Fresh fluid throughout, 100,000km service done (water pump, belts, gaskets, all fluids, exhaust studs etc etc)

Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit

MV Automatic shift kit & auto service kit

Koyo Radiator upgrade

Splitfire coil packs on Ngk BCPR6E 0.8mm v-gruve copper spark plugs

Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts

Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel

Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Nissan Z32 Air Flow Meter

3inch JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system (turbo to cat)

3inch Random Technology 617cfm high flow race cat converter (California spec)

3inch cat-back exhaust pipe to Kakimoto GTR Racing free flow straight thru muffler

K&N pod filter

Cold Air Induction aluminium box w/ lid setup, foam internals, using standard snorkel air feed

Cold Air Radiator air guide (feeds radiator / pod / intercooler)

Apexi 'Hybrid' front mount intercooler, tube & fin and bar & plate, with custom return air feed pipe kit

Apexi boost gauge

Apexi SAFC Super Air Fuel Computer

Apexi SITC Super Ignition Timing Computer

Hybrid dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 1bar (drops to 12psi, requires replacement)

Toshi ECU remap chip with custom chip adapter

HKS heavy duty turbo actuator

Sliding Performance water/oil cooled 360degree bush bearing HiFlow Turbocharger

(rated 250rwkw@1Bar, 2yr old 10,000kms perfect condition, easy stable 1.1bar / 220kw achievable)

Suspension:

Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs

Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars

Dayz adjustable engine swaybar

Whiteline front castor kit

Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit

R34 GTT 17inch rims with Hankook K104 Vetus tyres, 235/45/17

Brakes:

Maltech stainless steel braided brake lines, front and rear

DBA slotted front brake discs

Bendix Advance front and Heavy Duty rear brake pads

Audio:

Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player

Clarion amp

Clarion 10inch subwoofer

Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers

Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers

Razin volt stabiliser kit

XXXXXX car alarm

* cheers for reading, and your posted thoughts

:cool:

edit: next tune will probably drop in the 555cc hiflowed injectors with new EBC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231596-last-mod-for-last-tune/
Share on other sites

Haha you're probably going to laugh at this, but the Jaycar IEBC is an excellent boost controller - just is a bit harder to tune and you have to build it yourself. In the brief time that it worked for me (I mustn't have built it properly), it used to hold boost on a steady 10 psi all the way to redline.

There is a thread in the Stagea forum, started by Sydneykid. The kits are about $90 + about $50 for a hand controller, however I'm sure someone close to you would be more than willing to give you a lend of theirs while you tune it. It will run without the hand controller just fine - just mount it under the glovebox or something, out of sight. You will need a solenoid to make it work, though - you should already have one on your Stagea that will work fine.

hey cheers mate

but NO I wont be using jaycar kit

as it is my current ebc holds stable 12psi no issues and always has

but with big hiflow and 1bar, it doesnt. no guarantee a jaycar will

no guarantee I can even build it and get it work'n

going to save $300 and see what I can buy

thats why Im after suggestions

whats the best buy for $300 for an ebc that holds 1bar guranteed

probably the profec b spec-2, looking on ebay for a good priced one

but also looking at blitz, hks.

anyone else? hks evc 2 looks to old to me. maybe a 3 or 4.

jaycar, no. sorry. cheers but yeah...

Turbosmart EboostII. It has features to stop the drop-off that is occurring just in case it happens that it's not your current boost controller that's causing the problem (although it's quite likely that it is.)

hahah cheers

but I quit work a month ago, got accepted onto the disability support pension as of 2days ago (no knees, 12 surgeries, 2m tall, 24/7 cronic pain)

so I dont have $600 for a eboost2 lol ;)

damn.

anyone want to sponser my Stagea :) ?

nah its all good

will save some $$ and get a profec b specii from Slide along with an apexi suction filter

cheers anyways

will do what the tuner says (ebc) and get a new air filter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...