Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found out (searched) that a good way to check faulty coilpack is using multimeter and the reading should be around 0.6 and 0.9 but that's for a RB20DET. Is the reading the same for R33 with RB25DET either with or without ignitors.

Attached is a picture of a Series2 coilpack (hopefully). Three terminals. Which terminals should i use to test?

I used 1&2 and got 1.0 and sometimes a 1.1 on the same coilpack. Is that good or bad?

post-48477-1218346650_thumb.jpg

Edited by teng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231736-another-coilpack-question/
Share on other sites

It seems my coilpack harness isn't spared as well. It's in horrible condition. As soon as i remove the connectors, bits of plastics falls off from inside the connectors. Time to get a new one i guess.

post-48477-1218347782_thumb.jpg

Pretty sure standard should read 1.1-1.3 Andrew

What exactly is the problem your having and have to diagnosed it back to the ignition system???

Looking at that plug you wouldn't be getting a great connection which will/can cause problems so i would change that ASAP and check all your others :D

Problem now is misfiring on idle. According to the workshop, it's connected to my coilpack as it hasn't been changed since 1996. I'm the 2nd owner so the first owner didn't bother to change anything i guess. lol Mileage is over 250k atm.

hi there im new here and this is a bit off topic im sorry. I have an a31 cefiro, has anyone of does anyone know if you can wire in the r32 ignitor into the cefiro harness to be used in wasted spark set up? i cant seem to find any diagrams for the ecu side of both ignitors as the cefiro one is ruined and corroded.. any help would be great thanks.

i had horrible misfiring from my coils and the loom was in really bad shape, my solution was to make up a completely new loom from the ignitor and solder the wire straight to the plugs pins then i cleaned the coil contacts and taped them up.

the tape only lasts 5000-10000ks so next time i plan to use some good quality heat shrink or i might try silicone.

it works well, i don't see the point in wasting 500-600 for spitfires sure i agree that it will give you a better spark but meh its a 20 year old $8k r32 why bother.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW )
    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
×
×
  • Create New...