Jump to content
SAU Community

Embarrasing Question

Damo_c

By Damo_c,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
Posted

I have a a stupid question, ive just installed a fmic. It didnt cum with a pin/connection for my boost cont welded in i found out after i started putting on the piping. Ive bought a little valve that i just screw into the piping from autobarn, the problem is cos ive never taken notive really of which pipe it went into on the stock one, i dont know which pipe i need to drill and tap it into. Can someone please tell me or show me a pic. Is it the one that goes from the turbo?

Please be gentle to me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232117-embarrasing-question/
Share on other sites
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
but wouldnt the cold pipe see actual pressure after any drop through the cooler?

no. lets say you do put it on the cold pipe, eg: say you loose 1psi through your cooler, and you boost controller is set to 12psi, your turbo will actually be making 13psi, because of the pressure drop. you want your boost controller seeing the pressure that the turbo is making, thats why you put it on the hot side fairly close to the turbo.

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
no. lets say you do put it on the cold pipe, eg: say you loose 1psi through your cooler, and you boost controller is set to 12psi, your turbo will actually be making 13psi, because of the pressure drop. you want your boost controller seeing the pressure that the turbo is making, thats why you put it on the hot side fairly close to the turbo.

cheers for that

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
no. lets say you do put it on the cold pipe, eg: say you loose 1psi through your cooler, and you boost controller is set to 12psi, your turbo will actually be making 13psi, because of the pressure drop. you want your boost controller seeing the pressure that the turbo is making, thats why you put it on the hot side fairly close to the turbo.

But wouldn't it be better to have the boost controller seeing exactly what pressure is reaching the manifold... I mean I don't particularly care if my turbo is making 13PSI if the engine only sees 12... the 12 is what I want to limit yeah?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
But wouldn't it be better to have the boost controller seeing exactly what pressure is reaching the manifold... I mean I don't particularly care if my turbo is making 13PSI if the engine only sees 12... the 12 is what I want to limit yeah?

you will care if your pushing the limit of the standard turbo, or any turbo for that matter. in then end you want your turbo producing the desired level of boost, and all the pipes and intercooler to have little effect on the overall pressure, you want the system to be the least restricting it can be, ie: using quality coolers with low pressure drop ratings.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

The problem with controlling boost via the pre intercooler pressure is that boost will slowly drop off at high rpm. Why? Because no matter how good it is, the intercooler and pipework will suffer some pressure drop. Plumbed into the pre-intercooler pipework, the wastegate actuator will not be receiving the actually boost pressure, hence the drop off at high rpm (actually airflow).

Cheers

Gary

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

QWK32 - Hrrm, I think I disagree. The turbos a means to an end, it just moves air up against the intake valves, a location I care more about regulated pressure then out the comp outlet of the turbo. Assuming your not constrained by turbo outlet pressure (stock ceramic) I think maybe the pressure there is borderline insignificant.

OP - For a manual BC, I'd take it from close to the TB. For a EBC, I would take the closed loop boost sender feed from same location, though take the wastegate feed from close the compressor outlet.

Its kinda moot in most setups Id say, and depends on the specifics. If you are boost limited by a stock turbo (and going along with boost/heat kills em) then the feed taken from the comp outlet would be the way to go, to insure you don't go over 13psi (or woteva it is)

If your motors tuned close to the limit with a aftermarket turbo and built motor and you know you start to det on a hot day at 24psi... well then the a TB/plenum source is the go.

Hope that made sense... 2 of them even:)

Damo_c Collaborator

Damo_c

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, so im getting my bro in law to weld it to the piping, i have a turbosmart t-boost which i will be getting rid off soon for a ebc. I have a power fc - untuned atm, stock turbo, exhaust and now the fmic. I was guna get it welded off the turbo but as i am getting the ebc soon and the tune, what you are saying is that im better of getting it on the outlet piping so i think ill go that way. I didnt think it would cause this much of stir seeing as this is a turbo forum and i assumed people on here would have them in pretty much the same location as being the best position for them all.

Thank you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan 路 Posted

      Finally got shipping number for the intake and throttle body, shipped by UPS, so "should" be in my hands sometime next week, fingers fracking crossed
    • GTSBoy
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • The Bogan
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By The Bogan 路 Posted

      Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 馃ぃ, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • GTSBoy
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • MBS206
      [HOW-TO] Winter Steam-Clean & Odour Removal in 30 min

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
脳
脳
  • Create New...