Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I found this photo on a for sale addy when doing a bit of searching for how others had set up their air filters on N/A R34's.

Would there be much benefit in modifying the intake using a metal elbow pipe?

To me it looks like they've mainly done it to extend the pod filter to where the cold air comes through.

Another thing too, on the standard air box I notice there's a vacuum line running into the air box..what does this do? If replacing a air box with a pod filter setup, where would this line need to go?

I currently have a K&N Panel, though I've thought about later changing to a pod filter, but going about it the right way so as not to hinder performance.

845f_1.jpg

Edited by N-DAWG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232764-interesting-na-pod-filter-set-up/
Share on other sites

my opinion is that a metal intake pipe will make some difference, but very little and doubtful that it'll be noticeable.

by all means metal will be better than plastic.

describe the vaccuum line, small thin one or thick one?

im thinking tps, oil or charcoal canister? (its late excuse the vagueness)

Would using the elbow to extend the pod below that air feed be as good as a pood filter enclosed in an air box?

Aesthetically I quite like the above set up too.

There's two vacuum lines that run next to each other; one stops at the air box, the other runs around the air box and to the canister.

I tried doing a google for an image without too much luck. If I get the chance I'll try take a photo later this arvo.

yeah, above setup it quite sexy.

was going to do it myself too, although the guy wanted 120 bucks for the pipe, so i ran outta there.

just got defected for my pod filter, so might run a box next time.

get this...got defected for my strut bar too...the stock one LMAO.

I put a setup very similar to this on me NA R34, I did it mainly for the increase in intake noise. That little vacumn line which goes to the air box is only a vent so dont be worried about it just tuck it away. Anyway no real power difference but the sound is cool.

i may be wrong, but on a stock intake pipe, i believe there is a box on the side of the pipe that goes through the section where that elbow is, from my observation it looks like a resonator similar to the ones ive seen on wrx's, i know that on the wrx, when removed they allow better airflow and you can hear your stock gate and bov much better :D , their main purpose on a wrx, was to basically do something (i dont know what) to the airflow to make the car quieter, at the expense of hp, and i think it is the same setup on the intake pipe of my n/a skyline

I've got the same sort of set up on my car, I've found the new intake does make a difference and gives you a noticeable gain in the top end and it sounds great, although it comes at a cost, bottom end torque is reduced and fuel economy is also reduced.

post-5803-1219751790_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
×
×
  • Create New...