Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, im curently importing a r32 with an rb26 in it,im goin to use it for some track fun only, its all stock apart from a large front mount and some kind of hks zorst, just wondering what power i can push through it with the stock internals? whats safe with rb26s, im goin to change the turbos to some kind of after market with steel wheels before i do anything,as i know they wont last very long. ive tryed to do a few searches but it takes to long with the dial up net speed i have at the moment, any help and advice would be great, thanx dazza.

I'm no expert but can tell you from personal experience it will not only be the power you generate that will crumble your internals, but also the age and condition of your bearings, how much oil pressure your engine is making, whether you're running an oil cooler. My engine shat its bearings running 200RWKW and the engine wasn't all that bad prior to going to the track.

Personally I find the figures quoted in the UK thread unbelievable. My guess would be at some of those higher numbers a 'standard internals' 100,000km GTR engine will be a grenade.

Yerp at the end of the day it all comes down to engine condition,

and your not going to know the full extent unless its pulled down.

then while its pulled down your going to rebuild it right??

yer thanx for that, yer im just tryin to be a tight ass at the moment, but i can see it will come back and bite me in the ass later.

tight ass and gtr usually turn into broke ass and broken gtr.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...