Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy got these in stock

Factory BNR34

18x9 +30

Tyres no good

$2000

R34.jpg

SSR TypeC- Excellent condition

17x9 +21

225/45/17 ~75% Bridgestones

$2200

SSR.jpg

SSR SP1 Black

18x8 +29

18x9 +24

$2500

SP1.jpg

Work Meister S1 3P

18x8 +16

18x9 +16

$2500

Meister18.jpg

Work Meister 3P-Very good condition

18x9 +29

18x10 +4

$2900

MeisterBlack.jpg

Rays TE37

PCD 114.3x5

18x8.5 +30

18x9 +35

$2200

18TE37.jpg

Work VS-XX silver- excellent condition

18x8 +26

18x9 +20

Tyres ~70% 225/40/18

$2300

VSXX.jpg

Black Racing N1 Pro

18x8 +30

18x9 +38

$1700

BlackRacing.jpg

SSR SP1-Very good condition

18x8 +31

18x9 +37

$2,300

BlackSP1.jpg

Volk GT-C Mercury-

Tyres ~70% RE01R

17x8 +16

17x9 +6

$2100

GT-CMercury.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...


  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...