Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need to clean out my bedroom of all this stuff as its taking up to much space, so this is what i have

- FMIC kit of R33 will need some hose clamps and siilicone pipes -$300 neg

- R33 diff with shatfs, brakes, and hubs (not sure what ratio diff is) - $400 neg

- R33 rear tail lights in white - $50 for pair

- R33 headlights in average condition - $50 for pair

- Right hand front guard - $50

- R33 boot lid with stock spoiler - $100

- R33 side mirrors - $80 for pair

- R33 front strut brace - $60

- T25 turbo on SR20 mainfold with oil and coolant lines - $220

- 2 x S15 rims in gunmetal gray with dunlop sp sport maxx tyres - $200 for both

- 500hp walbro in tank fuel pump all wired up ready to plug in run - $180

All R33 parts are form a series 1

The best way to contact in on my mobile which is 0424255931. All this stuff is pick up only and im located in Wollongong

Thats all i can think of at the moment but there will be more added to list soon

Edited by SUS_1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233342-cleaning-out-my-bedroom/
Share on other sites

far out you must have a big bedroom

not really i just pack it in there well :O

More stuff that i have found

- HKS super drager canon with 4inch turbo back exhuast but has no cat or sensors - $80

- R33 gtst cluster with 90,000 km on it - 450

Edited by SUS_1
I need to clean out my bedroom of all this stuff as its taking up to much space, so this is what i have

- FMIC kit of R33 will need some hose clamps and siilicone pipes -$300 neg

- R33 diff with shatfs, brakes, and hubs (not sure what ratio diff is) - $400 neg

- R33 rear tail lights in white - $50 for pair

- R33 headlights in average condition - $50 for pair

- Right hand front guard - $50

- R33 boot lid with stock spoiler - $100

- R33 side mirrors - $80 for pair

- R33 front strut brace - $60

- T25 turbo on SR20 mainfold with oil and coolant lines - $220

- 2 x S15 rims in gunmetal gray with dunlop sp sport maxx tyres - $200 for both

- 500hp walbro in tank fuel pump all wired up ready to plug in run - $180

All R33 parts are form a series 1

The best way to contact in on my mobile which is 0424255931. All this stuff is pick up only and im located in Wollongong

Thats all i can think of at the moment but there will be more added to list soon

HI just wondering if ur headlights are still for sale and are they clear or dull? if there not old can u email me some photos?

Cheers

here is a list of the stuff i have left

- FMIC kit for R33 - $300

- R33 cluster with 90,000km - $100

- R33 front hubs both sides - $100

- R33 gtst springs pedders lows - $100 for the full set

- R33 side mirrors in white - $50 for the pair

- 500hp walbro in tank fuel pump - $170

- 2x S15 rims in gunmetal gray with tyres - $180

- R33 rear tail lights in white - $50 for pair

- R33 right hand side guard - $70

- R33 boot lid with spoiler - $90

The contact no. is 0424255931 and my name is Alaric and all parts are pick up only!!!!

hey mate,

interested in the pedders springs, are they from the pedders "ryder" range (2696 Sports Ryder Coil Spring)? how old/what condition are they in? Some pics would be great!

Cheers,

Sam.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...