Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am considering purchasing a V35 from Japan and importing it. I have a couple of questions regarding these.

I have seen that they have a similar engine to the 350Z, given this, how quick does the V35 get to 100km's stock i.e. 5, 6 secs. If you do some tweaking, what could you get it to do without major enhancements i.e. turbo's etc.??

Also what is the Auto transmission like in these? Are they responsive? I notice that the new GT-R has an auto (guessing tiptronic) and this appears to be a kick ass transmission. Now I know the V35 will be nothing like this, but what is it like. I am interested in getting peoples opinions regarding the auto box. Should one wait for a manual to come up (given I would prefer one) or would the auto do just as well.

Also with the sat nav, TV and dvd etc. converting it to english, is this possibile while still having touch screen capabilities etc.??

Just thought I would asks guys that have one currently.

Cheers for reading.

D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233786-some-questions/
Share on other sites

Also what is the Auto transmission like in these? Are they responsive? I notice that the new GT-R has an auto (guessing tiptronic) and this appears to be a kick ass transmission. Now I know the V35 will be nothing like this, but what is it like.

The R35 GT-R's gearbox is a dual-clutch electronically controlled manual. Its not a torque converter gearbox like the V35, so its not even remotely comparable. The R35's gearbox is more comparable to a manual that just happens to be missing a clutch pedal, and lets you do lightning fast changes.

I am interested in getting peoples opinions regarding the auto box.

I own a manual 350Z, and I've driven an auto V35. I don't mind the auto if you're just going to cruise in it, as it was quite convenient to drive around town in without worrying about easing the clutch in off the line, or changing gear.

However, once you open it up and drive a bit faster I'd still prefer the control a manual gearbox provides. The fact that the V35 doesn't come with steering wheel shift paddles is also really annoying from a sports driving perspective. The shifter's action is also logically backwards (forward for up a gear, backwards for down) unles you're from America.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233786-some-questions/#findComment-4098317
Share on other sites

V35 are definitely slower than 350Z, probably by half a second at least. They're obviously heavier with 4 seats coupe body, not to say the longer sedan body. Without major forced induction mods it'll probably a bit waste of money unless you're a fan of N/A performance (low down torque, no lag, etc).

There's a lot of cars that actually had that shifter action upshift forward and downshift backwards, e.g. Mazda...

I've hardly seen any (never driven europeans) except local Ford BA Falcon that has it turned the other way around to what logically correct (upshift backward, downshift forward).

But there is a DIY here on the forum how to re-wire it if you prefer it goes the other way around. Problem is finding the + and - label to stick on the gearshifter panel once you've done that - can be left alone but will kinda confuse other people :)

paddle shift might be a love/hate relationship... some people love it, some hate it. I've read Motors review that after a while on some cars the novelty of the paddle shift is gone and people tend to leave the gear in 'D' unless the paddle shift is the only way to drive the car. And the Top Gear guys hated them. It's been placed as one of the most hated things of the century (they put a picture of a Ferrari steering with paddle shift) in last Monday's episode on SBS :)

Sedan V35 with 8sp CVT has paddle shift, but they don't turn with the steering wheel.

Looking at even how standard torque converter autos start to come with 5sp or 6sp on some cars, I think in the future most cars will be shifting towards automatic and CVT and DSG style gearbox like in GTR or Golf GTi... clutch pedal may soon be extinct from high end market cars...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233786-some-questions/#findComment-4098342
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...