Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the end you can change everything and put all the running gear of a gtr onto a gtst or gts4 but when you put the vin through nissan fast it will come up saying its a gtst/gts4.

i dunno, i've always been under the impression that if it smells like an orange, tastes like an orange and looks like an orange, it must be an orange. If someone goes to great pain to up spec something lower to be as good or better than a "higher" model, then I don't see any harm in them claiming its as good, or is that model.

What I do have a problem with is people who have a lemon, which smells, tastes and looks like a lemon, but insist its an orange.

If I eat viet food, dress like a viet, speak viet, get a viet haircut, get a viet girlfriend, have viet friends...does this mean im viet?

should i go around telling people im viet?

no.coz its confusing as hell. lol

im not actually viet. hahahaha i dont even know why i chose that example...i think its cause i want pho. :D

How about if a mate showed up at your house party with an expensive bottle of wine, that you later learned was just a cleanskin with an expensive label put on it?

Maybe you were still drunk and couldn't tell the difference, but wouldn't you feel a bit cheated?

It's a tacky move, but people probably should have been a bit nicer about it. I've definitely seen tackier before anyways.

actually mazda did have a GTR. it rocked. mazda familia GTR was one of the best rally cars ever made.

Small, light-ish, all wheel drive and with a bit of power they really haul ass. They are bloody fun to drive.

Now i miss my old Familia GTR :P

Edited by babyskyline
i dunno, i've always been under the impression that if it smells like an orange, tastes like an orange and looks like an orange, it must be an orange. If someone goes to great pain to up spec something lower to be as good or better than a "higher" model, then I don't see any harm in them claiming its as good, or is that model.

What I do have a problem with is people who have a lemon, which smells, tastes and looks like a lemon, but insist its an orange.

I dont see any harm in someone putting the time and effort in making their car better in everyway such as the engine, running gear, looks etc but for me i would still say i added all those things not claim it came from the factory as something it didnt.

so if you wrote off your GTR, you wouldn't use a GTS4 chassis to rebuild it? even though the Nissan part number for the chassis on both cars are the exact same? I mean... going by what you're saying it'd then make your GTR a GTS4 right?

I get why you guys get all wound up like schoolgirls with runs in their panties when it comes to say a blatantly obvious GTSt with no mods and 6" wide wheels sporting a GTR badge. But when someone takes great pain to build what they have to something they aspire to have, I don't see why they should be shot down, especially if they've taken great effort to make sure its as good or better than what it claims to be.

so if you wrote off your GTR, you wouldn't use a GTS4 chassis to rebuild it? even though the Nissan part number for the chassis on both cars are the exact same? I mean... going by what you're saying it'd then make your GTR a GTS4 right?

I get why you guys get all wound up like schoolgirls with runs in their panties when it comes to say a blatantly obvious GTSt with no mods and 6" wide wheels sporting a GTR badge. But when someone takes great pain to build what they have to something they aspire to have, I don't see why they should be shot down, especially if they've taken great effort to make sure its as good or better than what it claims to be.

You dont have to defend yourself dude, people have a way of being soooo sensitive today and turning every little thing into an international incident.

By the way do you know about the r33 gtr in New Zealand which is actually a gts-4 convert? It was on the high octane dvd series (#2 i think)

An amazing trust 700hp gts-4 with a gracer bodykit painted in purple, it raced the ford gt40.

Not defending myself, just playing devil's advocate. I've got a GTS4, and I know how amazingly easy it is to make into a GTR down to the last bolt... hell my car's already halfway there. I wouldn't personally put a GTR badge on it even if I did swap the engine out. I know its not worth the time and money when I could just as easily buy a real GTR. That said if I saw someone go to that much effort to own a GTR... I wouldn't make fun of them.

I mean, heaven forbid if a company went off and converted a 4 door HNR33 to an RB26, and then went and plonked a mighty big old GTR badge on the rear. Surely that's not a GTR? And then the audacity of the company, lets hypothetically call it... oh i dunno.. "Autech"... that's a nice random name... to sell this 4 door "GTR" with an HNR33 chassis and a bolted on "BNR33" plate as a "limited edition"... of course... no one would ever buy that. Never.

</sarcasm>

:P

yeah you could potentially mock up a GTS-4 to GTR spec - but no one would realistically do that would they.

GTR badges on anything thats not are lame and tryhard, no matter whats under the bonnet, people look, realise its not the real deal and think 'what a loser'.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...