Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

May I just start by saying I LOVE MY SKYLINE !

I LOVE it when it has a problem, because I enjoy working on it and fixing it.

Although, Now I have a problem I just cant work out, and Ahh, its fustrating !

When ever I turn my steering wheel, it sounds as if there is a busted bearing right behind it? Although I know there isnt a bearing there.

It has been getting worse and worse by the day. I have a standard steering wheel with an airbag.

Just today the horn went off as I turned the wheel, AND IT WOULDNT STOP ! Embarrassing driving down the highway.....

I have dissconected the horn from under the bonnet (which was stuffed anyway, I need a new one "Anyone have the two horns for cheap?"), but am sceptical to remove the steering wheel.

Has anyone ever had this same issue, does someone out there is JapWorld have any idea what it might be ??

Help me fellow SKYLINE LOVERS, cause I am stumped ???

Thanks,

Dave :)

Hrrm, well considering theres something wrong with the horn slider contact, AND you hear a noise, the odds would be pretty dang high of the noise coming from the PS system (in this case)

Use search, learn how to remove a air bag wheel safely, and I would bet real hard earned internet dollars that theres something thats just broken / worn thats dragging and making the noise (as well as causing the "bearing like noise")

A PS noise could be located by having a mate under the hood, while you crank the steering wheel while at standstill anywho.

Good luck

your problem is the "Clock Spring/Contact Reel"

seen it a million times, as I am an SRS specialist

remove the air bag, steering wheel and steering column covers and its the part where the airbag wiring comes from

replace that and refit everything in reverse order and your done

if you dont know all the DOs and DON'Ts of working with SRS Air Bags PM me for more detailed instructions or i can post it here

STEP BY STEP

1. Make sure the steering wheel is in the center (front wheels straight ahead)

2. Ignition off and keys out of barrel or if it makes you feel safer battery disconnected

3. Undo the bolts holding the airbag on the wheel (normally T30 tamper proof torx head)

4. Disconnect wiring plugs, be gentle here as they can be fragile

5. Place the airbag face down on something that wont scratch it (back seat is a good place)

6. Crack the nut holding the steering wheel and undo it, but not all the way, leave a couple turns

7. You will have to try and pull the steering wheel towards you its will be tight,

best way is the shock it by hitting it from the front and back (this is assuming you don't have the correct tool to pull the wheel off the spline)

8. Once you have loosened the wheel remove the nut and remove the wheel

9. Undo the screws holding the steering column covers and remove them

10. I can't remember exactly what hold the clock spring/contact reel on a skyline but its pretty straight forward

11. Refit everything in reverse order

now if your getting a second hand clock spring you should always make sure its centered otherwise if its even one turn out as soon as you go full lock it will snap and you will be back to square one

1. To center a clock spring rotate the front anti-clock wise till it stops (be gentle)

2. Then turn it clock wise and count how many turns(normally its either 5 or 6 full turns)

3. Now turn anti-clock wise half the amount you just counted ( if you counted 5 go back 2.5 turns, if you counted 6 go back 3 turns)

DOs and DONTs

1. DO HAVE THE IGNITION OFF or BATTERY DISCONNECTED

2. DO HAVE THE WHEELS STRAIGHT AHEAD

3. DO BE GENTLE WITH ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS

4. DO HAVE THE CLOCK SPRING CENTERED

5. DO MAKE SURE THE AIRBAG LIGHT GOES OUT WHEN YOU TURN THE IGNITION ON AFTER YOU HAVE FINISHED (if not check what fault is coming up and fix it)

6. DON'T TURN THE IGNITION ON TILL YOU ARE 110% FINISHED

I accept no responsibility if you kill yourself from a bag firing in your face, or anything else that goes wrong

I think it can be as simple as the counter weight in the steering wheel has come off it's fittings and is shorting on the horn contacts. The counter weight sits above (or maybe below) the airbag unit. It is there to make the wheel feel "balanced" and not top/bottom heavy due to the airbag unit.

Follow the instructions listed above, but you will not need to remove the wheel itself. Once the bag is removed, you'll see a chunk of metal floating around in the wheel. You'll also see the rubber supports that the weight has broken away from. I think you could get away with using cable ties to re-secure the weight in place.

It happened to a mate's R33 s2; At the time we just threw the weight away, but later realized the the wheel felt unbalanced. Oh well we learnt from our mistake.

Good luck, especially when trying to get those airbag bolts off. We didn't have the exact tool, we managed to get one off and drilled out the second. :wub:

here's an interesting one for you Dahtone... I left my car with my GF's old man while I went on holidays so he could fix a few things... I asked him to fix my horn as it isn't working but he has royally botched it... now not only does the horn still not work but the SRS light is on and my power steering has gone heavy, like it's only using its high speed assistance... I have an aftermarket wheel in place of the airbag wheel...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/This-t191755.html

That is what you'll find floating around in there. Simple problem. I took mine to a auto-electrician thinking my horn was going off for no reason. $50 later they handed me that and said "all fixed". I personally couldnt be stuffed playing around with airbags.

  • 1 year later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Mine too was also the counterweight! It had come off the support. Horn was goin off for no reason when i was driving and steering wheel made a sound like something made out of metal was loose inside it. Used cabel ties (great idea!!) nd problem solved! Tanx guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...