Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just been offered a good deal on multiple sets of these coilovers, but 3 sets are needed to get them at this price, they retail for almost double this

What: R33 & R34 Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers

Price: $2200 +$50max postage aus wide

When: As soon as 3 people put a deposit down, they are in Aus, so 1 week to you door max

Who: Contact myself via PM, Email or phone ~ [email protected]

Height and dampening adjustable, roughly 30-50mm drop is possible, inverted monotube design

Bilstein B16 – PSS9/PSS10 System

This “race inspired” system provides the ultimate in high

performance tuning. The manually adjustable damping

monotube gas shock absorbers feature 9 or 10-stage

precise compression and rebound settings, from comfort

to competition. The threaded body allows accurate

adjustability of the front and rear progressive rate

springs to achieve the vehicle ride height,

center of gravity and

level of performance

handling desired.

The Bilstein B16 system puts

you in complete control

providing the kind of precise

suspension tuning formerly

available only on race

cars. From a weekend of

competition to daily

driving, this system

provides perfect

handling

performance for

every situation.

Image below just for reference

{7B5E8DFA-DA5B-4B9F-00B6-689FDA000D4D}.jpg

For any more info just ask, I dont come onto these forums that much, but i will check back soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234685-r33-r34-bilstein-pss9-coilovers/
Share on other sites

Sorry they are for R33 & R34 GTRs only, they never did a pss9 for R32 or other gtst, ot that is still available today at least

But don't Bilstein do a coilover for the R32 GTR. I thought they did only recently. It wasn't a pss9.

I remember seeing it advertised for around the $4000 mark complete set.

I think they are 400lbs Front (approx 6 or 7kgs) and 450lbs Rear (approx 8kgs).........I'd prefer the other way around if possible.

Jude (CAZMAN) needs to confirm this though............soon I hope.

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...