Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I'm in pretty bad need of a new set of discs and pads for my R34 25GT Sedan (N/A)

From what I've been able to find, the Turbo has bigger brakes, so I would assume the pads are also different size?

Can I fit GTT brake pads? Or would I need to replace rotors as well and calipers?

If so besides the rotor and pad what else would i need?

I imagine the calipers would need changing as well.

I don't have performance modifications at the moment, but would be looking to possibly do a turbo conversion late next year, so I guess the next question is, should I replace with standards now, or replace go straight to the Turbo spec Brakes.

Cost is a bit of an issue at the moment as I've also got camber and castor kits on the way to be fitted, and new tyres fairly soon...but I'm prepared to spend a little more to get better results when it comes to safety and handling.

Thanks guys!

Cheers

Nathan

25GT brakes are smaller then GTT so brake pads won't fit.

you will need pads, calipers & rotors.

i dunno if 33 gtst brakes fit but if they do, that might be a cheaper option and more easy to find.

R34 GT (non-turbo) have the same rotors as the R33 gtst, but the pads and calipers are different.

youll have to change something if you want turbo calipers.

unless youre going for the look, Id say just get standard sized DBA rotors all-round, but invest some money is high performance brake pads, and thats all the stopping power youll need. Get some ADR approved braided brake lines as well.

At the moment im upgrading to turbo calipers, rotors and getting braided brake lines put in. I just want the pretty red painted calipers sticking out :3some:

  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up just getting standard discs on the front for now. I needed them asap so fronts have been done. I still need to do rears though.

Luke, how much would you be looking at for your brakes? What size are they?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...