Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After some major research I've settled for these turbos, was just wondering who in SA is running these turbos? Would love to hear your opinion on em :)

Also, open question: I'm getting them fitted at the same time as my Trust MX Extension front pipes...would this combo run fine with the stock ECU? I'm still hunting for a Power FC atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235660-r34-gtr-n1-turbos/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

After some major research I've settled for these turbos, was just wondering who in SA is running these turbos? Would love to hear your opinion on em :)

Also, open question: I'm getting them fitted at the same time as my Trust MX Extension front pipes...would this combo run fine with the stock ECU? I'm still hunting for a Power FC atm.

Im running N1s in my GTR with turbo back trust exhaust air filters Power Fc stock injectors stock fuel pump and stock afm's and im makinmg 296.5rwkw... comes on boost pretty early and they pull hard i like em

Need some clarification about the tune. I was under the impression that the stock ECU doesn't have any facilities for tuning, only an aftermarket ECU does...thats right, right?

you will be fine i had the n1's on with a stock ecu and had no drama's

Hi, I run N1s on my car... very nice! I have 326kw at wheels with smooth delivery.

Ryan is running 2860 turbos I reckon... similar but they hit a little harder. Shane (PURESX) is running 'em (2860s) too and they are nice!

If you are gonna go to the expense of changing turbos why not change computer?? A power FC will make a good difference to power and lots of people can tune 'em.

Ahhhh I see you are still lookin' for one!!

Edited by HOSTILE

Yeah, seen a few FC's in the FS section, and Slidewize are doing new ones for $980 delivered...so I'm just shopping right now, still have a week or 2 before the car goes into Boostworx and I'm just being stingy atm :)

It's on the cards though, all about the timing of the purchase now...darn old cars! Still have a squeak on the front right suspension area thats driving me nuts!

how much smaller and less kws would a set of r34 N1s make to the GT-SSs?

on a GTR R33

This chart my answer some questions. BTW there are 3 slightly different versions of R34 N1 turbos.

post-19208-1221119343_thumb.jpg

I'm currently running the 2860 -5's which are a smidge bigger than the N1's and still relatively responsive with good power.

Is anyone running a pair of 2860 -10's or HKS GT-RS (virtually the same I think) on their GTR that can comment on response sacrifice vs power gain?

The GTR ECU's cam be remapped so that is an option with the question about the ECU tune ability. Also if you are going to go for a Power FC it's worth while going for a D-Jetro. One of the member on here made 290 KW with his GTR when setting up his D-Jetro but made 312kw what the same tune and the AFM's removed (they were in there as a pod mounting bracket until he made something else up).

Don't think I'm gonna change to MAF sensors, I heard its not as "drivable" ie, great for power but mine is a daily :P

Ask people who have MAP based ECU's and you will find that that is an internet myth.

If want to ask someone in the know send Blue32 a PM.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...