Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think I may have the same problem.

The timing belt + a few others was changed about 7000 ks ago. It does only seem to happen when it's cold.

I do notice that the oil light is on while it squeels. The squeeling and oil light both stop/turn off at the same time. I thought it may be the oil but I changed it 2k k's ago and am using a full synthetic 5w-40 oil.

Water pump...... old falcon's and some smaller car's that make that sound.... it's usually the starter OR the water pump.

I dont know if skyline's have a water pump set up using the belt's.... or if it is independant....

but it's a thought

  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...
my car is haveing the same problem but i know its the starter and i will be greasing the shaft tomorow is it the starter motor shaft or the solenoid

it will be the driveshaft , take the starter out put it on the bench vice ( secure it on the vice ) then get a 12 volt battery put - on the vice or starter body and the +where the + ( thick cable) was when it was on the car . with a screwdriver touch the + pole with the solinoid then it should push the drive out and spin .

if the bush at the end hasn't got free play just grease it then spin it so the grease goes in it , dont put to much grease on it though as it will spew everywhere .

when you put it back it should be ok but dont be surpriced if after a few months it does it again .

check the ring gear teeth and the drive teeth for wear , damage as well .

starters on the gtst are easy to remove on the gtrs are a lot harder ( hard to get the top bolt )

Mine has started squealing as I have just had 100,000 kms service and all belts changed.

Never did it before. Yesterday it squealed both on acceleration and changing gears to take a corner. Very Loud. Slowed down and took it easy.

I noticed powdered rubber on the alternator. Tried some belt grip sray which has fixed it when accel - decel but not on startup for a second or two,.

Im a bit worried it may be my alternator packing up.. Belt feels quite tight. Could it be the alternator is getting harder for the belt to turn or something???

Glen

:Edit for typos:

if the belts are all tight then you may have problems , to check take the belts off one by one then you will find out what it is .

when the belt is out try to free spin the alt it should spin freely and no noise .

What About The Tensioner Pulley Bearings For The Cam Belt???

There Are A Lot Of Things That Can Make Squealing/squeaking Noises - A Lot Of Bearings On The Front Of A Skyline.... Water Pump, Air Con, Pwr Steering Pump, Alternator, Starter Motor, Cam Shaft Pulleys. Vvt Can Make A Bit Of A Noise As It Pumps-up Too If Left For A Week Or So.

Bit Of A Worry Really Especially If You're Not Really Mechanically Minded - A Lot Of People Change The Cam Belt But Overlook The Idlers. My R33's Weren't Much Chop After 80000k's.

A Snapped Timing Belt Wouldn't Make Your Day Very Nice.

it will be the driveshaft , take the starter out put it on the bench vice ( secure it on the vice ) then get a 12 volt battery put - on the vice or starter body and the +where the + ( thick cable) was when it was on the car . with a screwdriver touch the + pole with the solinoid then it should  push the drive out and spin .

if the bush at the end hasn't  got free play just grease it then spin it so the grease goes in it , dont put to much grease on it though as it will spew everywhere .

when you put it back it should be ok but dont be surpriced if after a few months it does it again .

check the ring gear teeth and the drive teeth for wear , damage as well .

starters on the gtst are easy to remove on the gtrs are a lot harder ( hard to get the top bolt )

ok i got the starter out and every thing looked really dry and black just carbon i guess i greased up the shaft and looked at the solenoid it to was dirty so i put some penitrating oil on it i used some aircraft quallity grease on the shaft hopefully it does the trick for longer than a couple of weeks but all works fine now thanks mate

  • Like 1
ok i got the starter out and every thing looked really dry and black just carbon i guess i greased up the shaft and looked at the solenoid it to was dirty so i put some penitrating oil on it i used some aircraft quallity grease on the shaft hopefully it does the trick for longer than a couple of weeks but all works fine now thanks mate

it should be ok , if you cleaned everything but dont be surprised if does it again on cold starts but not as bad as before .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hard to say, just pop the rocker covers off and have a look if you think it's cammed. You probably need to replace the valve cover gasket/half moons anyways.
    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
×
×
  • Create New...