Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Keep us updated with your thoughts as they wear in.

I bought a set of brand new Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001s for my R33 GT-R in 255/45 ZR17. That's one at each corner on standard R33 GT-R wheels, with TEIN coilovers.

That was a good few months ago. These tyres replaced Dunlop Direzzas which were on the wheels prior (which were basically bald). Clearly I lost a fair bit of outright grip going to the Adrenalins and certainly a lot of steering response (with the Direzzas nearly bald, steering was on the verge of darty, particularly over bumps and ridges when the car would tramline terribly).

So at first the Adrenalins made me think they were a bit soft and squidgy, despite running around 37-38 psi cold pressure as I usually do. After a little bit of 'spirited driving' here and there I think they've worn in nicely now (either that or the psychological 'novelty' of the tyres has worn off and I've adapted my driving style) and they seem pretty well keyed into the road. In the wet they also seem competent. I have probably driven the car about 6-7 tenths since getting these tyres in the dry, and maybe only 3/10ths in the wet (haven't driven the car much lately) but in those conditions I'm quite happy with them.

I'll soon be getting some 18"x 10" GT-Cs delivered, which I'll need new rubber for, and I'd be happy to go Adrenalin's on those too, but I'll be reading up some more on these and other forums to see what alternatives out there.

Matt

I noticed you said 255/45ZR17. I tried to get these but they don't make them....well they weren't in the catalogue or listed on the website and the dealer said he couldn't get them either. I had to go 255/40ZR17.

I have Adrenalins on my car now.

255/40/17 rear

235/45/17 front

250rwkw, they are better in grip than the 3000A's i had when they were new (XR6 tyre, old gen). And i must admit the 3000A's were amazing considering in 16's they cost me $150ea new in what, '03 :D

The RE001's hold perfectly almost everytime in the dry with full throttle. Wet is surprisingly decent as well, can still get a fair amount of power down before its arguing. I haven't dont any big launches yet to see how they perform off the mark, however rolling starts from 20km/h and WOT are no problem.

Been on several hard twisty runs now also, although im not pushing them as hard as i could as my brakes aren't upto the task yet (warped rotors i need to fix)

So in saying that... They respond really well for a dedicated street tyre... cant ask for much more than that considering the price i paid.

FYI - im also running extra camber and nothing stock suspension wise and so on also which aids for the hill runs and i dont really notice much understeer. So overall very very happy

I'm happy to take your word for it ;)

Good to hear good experiences with these tyres :)

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I noticed you said 255/45ZR17. I tried to get these but they don't make them....well they weren't in the catalogue or listed on the website and the dealer said he couldn't get them either. I had to go 255/40ZR17.

Good to hear good experiences with these tyres :laugh:

Sorry about that, they must be 40 aspect and not 45. I was also looking at the brochure yesterday and it didn't havt 45 listed. So mine would be exactly the same as yours then...

Might be a problem for me as the only ones in the dimensions close to what I want are 265/35 18 (for my new rims) which means the tyre sidewall will be 92.75mm. The standard tyre for the R33 GT-R on stock 17"s is 245/45 17, or 110.25mm sidewall height. Currently I'm at 255/40 17 or 102mm, so going for 265/35 is going to make the rolling diameter somewhat lower; nearly 20mm less which to me seems signficant. I suppose that as long as all four wheels are the same dimension for the ATTESA-ETS she'll be right.... :merli:

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I just got rid of my jap tyres for some Adrenalins on the GTR. I replaced 2 front Bridgestone Playz 245/45/17 and 2 rear Bridgestone Potenza GIII (bald) 245/45/17. I got the adrenalins in 235/45/17 as they are not that much narrower than the 245 in width and they were about $200 cheaper per tyre. Do you guys know we get 2 types of Adrenalin in AUS... we get the Oz made ones and the slightly more expensive Jap made ones. I ended up with the Jap ones for $230 each and gotta say I am more then happy with them. ON MY Mazda Familia I have driven on Kuhmo ecsta 711 (shite), Falken 752 (not bad), Good year Eagle GSD3 (excellent), Yokohama S-Drive (excellent) and I can say that the adrenalins are much better tyres than all of them except the s-drive which they are about on a par with.

The tyres that were removed from the front (Playz) are very similar in tread design to the RE001 and they were an awesome tyre, not once did I get any slip from them, where ever I pointed the car it went there. The tyres are about 1000kms old now so will give an update as they wear in a bit more which won't take too long seeing as I do 500km a week just driving to and from work!

On a side note... One thing I will never compromise on is tyres. They are what holds you on the road, although I went the cheaper size I only did this because the difference in width was marginal so not really a compromise IMO plus I saved myself an extra $800!

  • 3 weeks later...

I found it strange my tyres let go on a good downpouring of rain. The road was the rough bituman, and going around a moderately long U bend on a range road. Slipped out quite easily, and I wasn't exactly going fast. Probably a faster than i should've been going, but not fast in my books.

I was doubting the wet performance a bit myself, they feel very confident on the freeway but easy to slip at other times. Interesting that others have found the same thing maybe it's not just me.

Overall a bloody good tyre for the price. And they're still very safe in the wet I just would have liked a bit more grip :P

  • 3 weeks later...

I've got T1R's all round (18's) and need to replace the rears. If the RE001's are cheaper I'll probably give them a go and also post my thoughts here. I've been very happy with the T1Rs, but wouldn't mind something with more bang for buck.

I've got T1R's all round (18's) and need to replace the rears. If the RE001's are cheaper I'll probably give them a go and also post my thoughts here. I've been very happy with the T1Rs, but wouldn't mind something with more bang for buck.

It will be interesting to see what you think of them. Just remember when you compare them that your going from a worn set to a new set so it might feel better off the bat (bar the new tyre squishy feeling). So let them break in for a bit then you'll see their true light.

Let us know how you go :laugh:

  • 2 months later...

Not to bring up a old thread but Im getting some new tyres Friday

I will be replacing the fronts with the Toyo T1R which were originally Bridgestone RE001. So I will see how these go on the fronts to compare the two tires.

I will be putting my 60% RE001s on the rear and wearing them out over the next 5 - 10 000km then putting some T1Rs on the rear also and will compare the two tires. (although the RE001s are only at 60% im pretty sure Ill get a fair evaluations of what they are like as a rear tyre.)

we are still getting tearing from the adrenalins on cars over 270rwkw.... they are great but are separating at the joins. 6 or 7 sets now.... :D

is that with off road driving (drifting, time attack) or with heavy street use? Im guessing track work?

I will be replacing the fronts with the Toyo T1R which were originally Bridgestone RE001. So I will see how these go on the fronts to compare the two tires.

The worst part about changing tyres I have found is tyres that feel great when they're new and aftera couple of heat cycles harden up and feel like your old tyres despite being more expensive and having more tread.

Still finding the RE001's will be very slippery on some road surfaces but it also has to do with tyre temperature, once warmed up they seem to grip better but I will have to undertake more... er.... qualitative studies :D

The worst part about changing tyres I have found is tyres that feel great when they're new and aftera couple of heat cycles harden up and feel like your old tyres despite being more expensive and having more tread.

Still finding the RE001's will be very slippery on some road surfaces but it also has to do with tyre temperature, once warmed up they seem to grip better but I will have to undertake more... er.... qualitative studies >_<

yeah, I must say my initial impressions of the T1R are good, they are impressive thats for sure and I would say their performance is right up there with the Adrenalins.

I haven't had the time on the road that I have had with the bridgestones but i would say their performance from what ive experienced to be much of a muchness. For a street car I don't think you will be disapointed with either tyre.

While i will post up more when i get some more time with the toyos for now Id advise you take the cheapest one. Ring around and see who can get your the RE001s or the T1Rs the cheapest and take those ones.

  • 2 weeks later...
we are still getting tearing from the adrenalins on cars over 270rwkw.... they are great but are separating at the joins. 6 or 7 sets now.... :(

Are they the Jap made ones or the slightly cheaper Aussie made ones??

  • 2 years later...

I have RE001's on my GTS-R, 280rwkw RWD - you can read my post on page 1 for more details.

One of the best tyre for the dollar in the wet that's ever been on it. I've never done burnouts on them etc. I've found in the past doing burnouts on street tyres can make them go "off" and be uttery useless.

If you don't have traction I'd look @ other things like suspenion, diff etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...