Jump to content
SAU Community

Trouble With Consult Cable


Bond
 Share

Recommended Posts

I got my consult cable in the mail today and then realised i had to go out and get a USB to rs232 converter to allow it to plug into my laptop.

Anyway i opened up the program and plugged it in and nothing happened!! It has a little LED on the plug but that doesnt light up! I have a remapped ECU but it should still work. I plugged it into my Patrol and it didnt work either.

Anyway i can test it?

Cheers

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah what com port is the usb/serial adaptor? check out ports section in device manager

also patrols are generally crap with consult. try nistune with trial/trial as user/email and see if that works. its supposedly one of few software that work with the unco consult protocol the patrols use

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

hey mate,

I get heaps of these for mates, and if you get a consult connector which led doesnt light up, sometimes they're wired up internally wrong, theres 2 wires they sometimes swap over (no idea why). Its the blue and purple wire (probably 1 and 2), theyre next to each other on the other connector, if you open it up (2 screws) you'll see what i mean.

If not your confident, you can send it to me and ill fix for you, if you pay postage. Up to you, takes 2 mins to fix

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did some maintenance on the MX5, did the engine oil and filter which was uneventful, then I drained the coolant to put in the new reservoir and a thermostat, reservoir took 5 minutes  The thermostat, well that took.........3 bloody hours, what a job, the issue was the 3 bolts holding it on, one was easy, 2 were hidden and required a few 1/4 drive extensions, 1 more than I had, and a 1/4 swivel, which I also didn't have, and a good amount of playing contortionist  Getting the 2 unseen bolts back on was a time consuming nervous nightmare, as I couldn't see where they went there was alot of stabbing and hoping for the best, trying to line up a 8 mm bolt straight, which you cannot actually see or get a hand in there, with a 1/4 swivel in the mix was a nightmare Anyways, it's done now, all burped out, and run up to temp a few times, happily no leaks thank Jebus After the thermostat fiasco I decided I need a few mental health days away from tools before doing the rest of the servicing on it As for the Dunnydoore, it had the aircon regassed and it has a clean bill of health, thinking about taking it out on Monday for a cruise down the coast to look at some houses if weather permits 
    • In other important race car news, instead of fixing the race car I changed the crank seals on the chainsaw, because wood burner Some damn tight (and lock tighted) m6 head bolts Who knew plastic crank cases were a thing! Quick tip, don't trust the youtube videos that say you can pull the old seals out with the head on in a husky 440e...not true, their crank seal tucks in behind the cover both sides. I'm not sure I'm a psychopath, but these things are damn loud....hope I can put all the bits back in the right place    Happily, it is now back to turning fallen trees into a combination of firewood logs and wood chips....just need a clear day to get into it properly
    • I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
×
×
  • Create New...