Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you only want less than 200rwkw (I say only, cos although it's still damn fast...lotsa people on this forum are well over 200rwkw) I would stick with the SR20 engine. The SR20 is a very responsive engine. Just need to pick a correctly sized turbo, and for around the 200rwkw mark I would go for something like a GT2530 or something. Should be able to hit the mark on a bit over 1bar, and not much laggier than standard. For a bit more power, but more lag...go the GT2835 which is supposed to be damn nice for the SR20. Any larger and I reckon you won't like it as it's too laggy. Also, the TD06 can be a nice equivalent too.

The biggest problem for my swap was the wiring. The diagrams that I have showed r32 and 180 have very different wiring setups. Once you find all the powers and grounds and get all the relays working you shouldnt have a problem.

PS I would go with custom mounts rather than the r33 x member so the engine will sit down and back a little more.

Originally posted by huks

How fast 1/4 would a s13 with a stock standard rb25det run?

should be able to hit 12's without a problem cuz mine has a rb26dett and it runs 12.3 @ 118mph with upped boost but dont forget I have 205 street tires and no lsd.

RB20DET deck height is considerably shorter than 25

RB20DET does not need modified mounts in S13, RB25DET does to enable the engine to sit lower so the bonnet can close.

RB30 deck height again is taller than 25

ummmm....i dont see the point???

back to the main comment/q's wateva...i'd go for the rb20det ova the rb25, the rb25det screws ur 50/50 weight hardcore

60/40 or worse ive been told

personally id just go the rb20, spend the money u saved on the rb 20 on mods and it'll b sweet assssssssss....just my 2 yen

well if you dont want to butcher your bonnet use custom mounts.

he clearance for my bonnet is a fair bit.

do it which ever way you choose to. both work.

as for weight balance, throw that out the window.

speaking from experience having a light as end, is all the fun. just dont get silly in the wet.

Originally posted by s13s15

ummmm....i dont see the point???

back to the main comment/q's wateva...i'd go for the rb20det ova the rb25, the rb25det screws ur 50/50 weight hardcore

60/40 or worse ive been told

personally id just go the rb20, spend the money u saved on the rb 20 on mods and it'll b sweet assssssssss....just my 2 yen

Excuse me? You've weighed and driven RB20DET and RB25DET equipped S13's?

Didn't think so.

The RB25DET is only slightly heavier than the RB20DET, although it is a far superior engine in most ways.

Perhaps you should question what you have been told by dickheads who dont know what they're talking about and dont repeat said rubbish by passing on your 2 yen.

Originally posted by Bozz

RB20DET does not need modified mounts in S13, RB25DET does to enable the engine to sit lower so the bonnet can close.

I didn't modify my engine mounts and it fits just- gotta custom plenum :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...