Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all im collecting parts atm to upgrade my rb20det in my r32 gtst have got pfc, r33 turbo, 040 intank,

boost controller an jus wanted to know will i need a fuel pressure regulater for these mods

Also already got the basic mods done and later on down the track i will be installing gtr injectors afm and gettin turbs hi flowed and coilpacks ect so if i don't need the fpr for the first lot of mods will i need it later on for when i put the gtr injectors in an all that

hope that makes sense cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/237816-rb20-upgrade-question/
Share on other sites

im getting confused there have been a few topics i've read and people are upgrading fpr's to adjustable ones

or is it cos i got a power fc i can adjust it on that an not worrie bout upgrading cos i will need more fuel once i start to

up the boost so can someone who definatley knows bout this explain please

im getting confused there have been a few topics i've read and people are upgrading fpr's to adjustable ones

or is it cos i got a power fc i can adjust it on that an not worrie bout upgrading cos i will need more fuel once i start to

up the boost so can someone who definatley knows bout this explain please

With the set up you described above there is no need to replace your stock FPR nor is there a need to bump the pressure up at all with the GTR injectors.

The stock reg will be fine as its rising rate so save your money for something else :P

im getting confused there have been a few topics i've read and people are upgrading fpr's to adjustable ones

or is it cos i got a power fc i can adjust it on that an not worrie bout upgrading cos i will need more fuel once i start to

up the boost so can someone who definatley knows bout this explain please

As the grandmaster said.

The PFC doesn't know about fuel pressure, so you can't control it from there. The factory FPR is a rising rate regulator, and as you up the boost, so you will up the fuel pressure. You get more fuel by programming the PFC to open the injectors for a longer time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...