Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have oil leaking from the bolt closest to the fire wall on the exhaust manifold. I recently used an easy-out to remove the previous broken bolt and since replacing it with a new one oil has been pissing out.

any one got a clue on what ive done and how to fix it?? any ideas appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23804-help-oil-leaking-from-bolt/
Share on other sites

the bolt is definately the right size and in nice and tight. Im unsure whether it had a copper washer as the stud was broken since i had the car. Should there be oil in this area of the engine in the first place?

the bolt that i have used has a washer but does not completely cover the hole on the manifold like the others do. But i am still unsure why there is oil coming out as i think there shouldnt be oil there in the first place. Maybe i have damaged the exhaust gasket but no oil is seaping around the gasket only from the bolt hole.

thanx for your help

there is no oil in the exhaust manifold dude , it must be leaking from somewhere else like rocker cover .theonly thing that comes out of the ex manifold is exhaust so if it was leaking there would be black around it .when u drilled the bolt to install u r easyout did u drill to far in to the head maybe ?if u did that may explain the oil . pull the bolt out and blow compressed air in the hole to see if it goes in to the head if it does thats u r prob , if it doesnt look elsewhere for the oil leak.

as far as i remember that should be a stud in to the head and a stainles nut with a thick washer , the washer is there so the nut can be tightened and cause the hole in the manifold is big so the man is easy to install .people brake these studs cause they do them to tight, u should use a torque rench to do them up and start from the middle and work ur way to the outer nuts otherwise u may warp the manifold .when u undo them u undo the outer ones first and work u r way to the middle .

there was oil leaking from the broken stud before hand thats why i decided to replace the stud, but no were as much as it is now. The rocket cover isnt leaking the oil is deffinately coming through the the manifold hole where the bolt is. I must of drilled into the head or some thing god damn hope its an easy fix for ats

take that bolt out then ,clean all the oil from that area if u dont have compressed air try to fit a tube in the hole and fix it somehow so it doesnt leak ( the tube ) blow or suck at the other end of the tube if air flows u drilled to far into the cil head and oil works its way through the thread ,if thats the case get some locktite put it on the tread of the bolt u are using ( i hope its stainless otherwise u wont be able to get out in say 1 years time ) then screw the bolt back in wait for the locktite to harden say 1 hour and it would probably fix your prob.

when u pull the bolt out put a very thin screwdriver ( thiner then the drill u used ) in the hole if it goes in a long way u drilled to far in .

if thats what the problem is it should work .if u have to buy the locktite get the red one for studs a cant remember the number of hand , just ask for studs and its red not blue .by the way its not cheap either like $20 for a little bottle but u only need a very small amount . i hope it works for u .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...